Hair Slighlty Up and Back

Long haircut with layering
Haircut with layering - Photo: Look Studio/Shutterstock
Q: Hi, I have long, naturally curly hair which is my crowning glory. Trouble is the top back of my head isn't domed as with many people and my hair sits flat there unless I backcomb at the roots and add hairspray and mousse (which, if they work, stops my hair feeling soft).
Is there a trick to cutting the hair that encourages the hair to sit higher on this area? The top layers at the sides seem to want to fall forward too, and I need a cut that would make the hair sit slightly up and back. No hairdresser seems to get it right. Any tips I can pass on? If you can help, you are BRILLIANT!

{Editor's Note: Before we could respond to this letter, the reader sent an additional letter with a quick update:} Hi again, I have just sent you an email about my 'flat' head and asked for your help, but have since found the section on Vertical Layering which seems to apply to me. I cut my hair myself these days as it looks better for it. Could you guide me a little more clearly on how (and where) I can cut these layers for maximum help to stop the top back of my head looking flat? Many thanks once more.
A: Well, first of all, I'm pleased that you found our article on Vertical Layering to be so helpful. Based on what you describe as your issue, you are going to want to create your shortest layers among the hairs at your crown area.
Vertical hair layering technique
Although the technique is called "vertical layering" the cutting lines don't have to be completely vertical. Even mostly vertical angles can be used, especially when you want to create specifically shorter lengths at the top of the head (as you do).
Given that you have naturally curly hair, cutting your shortest layers at the top of the head in the crown area would maximize the amount of curl you get in that area. This should make it so that you can use a diffused hair-dryer to dry your curls with maximum lift and shape the crown area of your head into a natural looking shape. It will also result in a cascading fall of curls down the sides of your head and won't shorten the overall length of your hairstyle more than you want.
You may want to at least enlist the assistance of a friend to help you make sure that you're not failing to see any spots at the back of the head, and to ensure an even, balanced cut, unless you're willing to give a professional stylist another try given the new information you've gained.
See also:
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