Short Wavey Wedge - How To

Short wavey wedge haircut
Step by step guide on how to cut a short wavey wedge from Stacey Broughton,
Of fundamental importance here, we have graduation in its purist form. This work is rich in technique, and a modern shape referencing the firefly. Mastering this technique will teach essential discipline.
Short wavey wedge - Before the haircut
Before: Lauren before the cut and color.
Short wavey wedge - How to section the hair
Step 1: Create a top section that runs equally from both temple areas along the contour of the head into a point on top of the occipital bone. This is then divided into two parts. Create a triangle in the back.
Short wavey wedge - Create a rectangle
Step 2: Create a rectangle in the front. Two sections are created in order to accommodate the angle of the head and allow for more accurate over-direction.
Short wavey wedge - Leave out the first section
Step 3: Leave out the first section that is taken just in front of the ear. Leaving out this section will allow you to add strength to the shape at a later stage.
Short wavey wedge - Cut front sections
Step 4: Next, take horizontal sections working up the head, pulling the sections down. The first section is slightly elevated to initiate the internal graduation. Subsequent sections are elevated a fraction and overdirected downwards.
These front sections are only cut to a dividing line central to the ear. This helps place the positioning of graduation throughout the side areas and establishes your guide.
Short wavey wedge - Cut the other side
Step 5: Apply the same technique to the other side, remembering to leave out the first section.
Short wavey wedge - Move to the back
Step 6: Now, move to the back area and take a diagonal section from the previous horizontal section. Take a piece of hair from above the ear incorporating some of the front and back and twist the hair so your fingers are parallel to the section in the back.
The degree of this section is determined by head shape and hair line. Principally this concerns itself with following the shape from front to back.
Short wavey wedge - Cut parallel sections
Step 7: Continue with parallel sections using the front horizontal sections as a guide and ensure to over-direct forwards and down. The degree of graduation can be varied according to your desired shape, elevation and movement.
Short wavey wedge - Obtain balance in the graduation
Step 8: Once 50% of this side is completed, move to repeat the process on the second side. This assists in obtaining a balance in the graduation.
Short wavey wedge - How to cut
Step 9: Now, go back to the first side and continue, but leave two final sections out.
Short wavey wedge - Crosscheck the haircut
Step 10: Repeat this process on the second side until all sections are completed. Then finish the original first sides sections. Then crosscheck diagonally. If there are mistakes, stop and revert to the original technique.
Short wavey wedge - Refine the cut with clippers
Step 11: Next, refine the outline with clippers and a small amount of clipper over comb.
Short wavey wedge - Work from the cheek bone to the top of the ear
Step 12: Now, work from the cheek bone to the top of the ear when cutting the first left out section using the points of the scissors. Then move the opposite direction towards the eye.
As previously stated, leaving this section out will allow you to add strength to the shape. Now refine using mini clippers.
Short wavey wedge - Cut the top
Step 13: When working the top, use the front and rear sections together to achieve a through line. The sections you take must be parallel to the underneath. When cutting use the underneath as a guide and leave 5mm of extra length.
Short wavey wedge - Cut the back
Step 14: When working the back, ensure your fingers are parallel to the underneath sections. Try not to damp down unless necessary (if you do, do it evenly) as this can distort your vision of the shape.
Short wavey wedge - Gradual gaining of length
Step 15: All sections follow this routine, gradually gaining length as you work up the head and remembering to pull the hair towards you. Therefore, every parallel 1cm section you take is 5mm longer than the previous and this builds up the weighty shape.
You will notice that eventually your final section is far longer than your first as every section is 5mm longer. Be aware of this. Too many sections means the top is too long. Too few sections means the top is too short.
Short wavey wedge - Cut for perfect balance
Step 16: Once this process is completed, move to divide into the original sections. Only cutting the original back triangle section, over-direct to the opposite side, cutting to the same sequence and leaving an extra 5mm of length on each section. This will give you perfect balance.
Short wavey wedge - Cross-check the top hair
Step 17: Finally, cross-check the top which will achieve a smooth line.
Short and modern wavy wedge haircut
Finish: A classic, yet modern short haircut. This is graduation in its basic form. It is rich in technique and graphic in cut.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
See also:
How to cut a short graduated bob
How to cut a balanced round graduation
How to cut a short Debbie Harry influenced hairstyle