Long Graduation with Pivoting Sections
Step by step guide on how to cut a long graduation with pivoting sections, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com. Long Graduation is the salon winner for the sexiest look. The result is a reduced commercial editorial shape, giving way to vibrant and beautiful curls.
Before: Aslihan before the cut.
Step 1: Begin with the front section, which runs from the centre parting to the nape. The section is slightly wider around the ear area, to accommodate the weak outline shape. This will vary in thickness, dependent on the hair quality.
Step 2: Elevate the hair and twist it in order to cut from short to long. Notice how Stacey increases his angle as he cuts. This technique enables you to cut the long lengths in a very technical manner, using over-direction and accuracy of hand and finger position for refinement of the line, rather than using disconnection.
Step 3: Continue with this process as you work this first section, taking manageable subsections with your fingers. As you work through this section, the angle of elevation is increased forward to maximize the outline length.
Step 4: Repeat this process on the second side for balance of texture and weight. Then check the internal shape, ensuring the concave shape is even throughout the perimeter.
Step 5: Return to the first side and work a section, pivoting from the centre parting across the round of the head into the nape. Take finger-size sub-sections, using the previous section as a guide and cut from short to long. Use maximum over-direction and elevation to create maximum length through the perimeter.
Step 6: In the thicker areas of the section, divide the hair into two for ease and control.
Step 7: Repeat this process on the second side. Please notice Stacey chooses not to mirror his body position on the second side but to stand on his first side to maintain his cutting angle. Always cutting down from short to long guarantees maintenance of length. Accuracy of body and finger position when cutting this shape is essential.
Step 8: Continually check the shape and balance, visually and technically.
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