Basic Concave Layer
Step by step guide on how to cut hair with the basic concave layer technique, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
This technique will help you with your body positioning when cutting and understanding layering. It's also great for textured hair. Master this shape and you will reap the benefits!
Before: Monica before the cut and colour.
Step 1: Begin the haircut on the right hand side. Take a diagonal section from the recession to just in front of the ear. Use even tension, over-direction and pull the hair forwards and up, angling your fingers towards the hairline, and cut a line from short to long. Notice that Stacey chooses to stand on the left of the model whilst executing his right hand side.
Step 2: Repeat this process on the second side, again standing on the opposite side. Working these two small sections first ensures correct balance from the outset.
Step 3: Check the balance technically and visually.
Step 4: Return to your initial side and cut the next section, using the previous section as a guide. Again, use over-direction and elevation and pay attention to the angle of your fingers.
Step 5: Then cut the second section on the other side.
Step 6: Continue with this alternating pattern until you reach the back. Working with alternating sections ensures accuracy of technique. Please note as Stacey works behind the ear, the section lengthens to include the back hairline.
Step 7: Please note that the sections from the front through the side are diagonal and curved into the nape area. These sections will become more vertical as you work into the back.
Step 8: Please note that as you move around the head, your angle is reflective of head shape. Notice how Stacey also decides to divide his longer sections for ease and accuracy.
Step 9: Remember to constantly check and refine the balance.
Step 10: Just before the final section in the back, you should crosscheck your work.
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