A-Line Bob

Step by step guide on how to cut an A-line bob, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com. This Salon Classics cut is a reflection on the timeless A-line shape, wrapped in a radiant blanket of pure blonde color. A sheer brilliant technique.

Before: Martha before the cut.

Cut an A-line bob - Establish the hair parting

Step 1: Before sectioning, it is a good idea to establish the parting in order to realise the balance at a later stage. Martha's hair falls naturally into a side parting. To determine this, comb the hair back with very little tension, then push forward, creating a natural break in the hair.

Cut an A-line bob - Let the hair fall naturally

Step 2: Let the hair fall naturally around the crown. Defining the natural parting first will help with the sectioning and the balance of the haircut.

Cut an A-line bob - Create a horse-shoe hair section

Step 3: Create a horse-shoe section from above the temple, incorporating the parting and allowing for disturbances and irregularities in the crown area.

Cut an A-line bob - Divide the hair from above the occipital bone

Step 4: Next divide the hair from above the occipital bone to just below the top of the ear. The remaining middle section is divided in the centre back.

Cut an A-line bob - Take out the underneath hair panel

Step 5: Then take out the underneath panel and divide this in the centre back. Next work the first section in the nape area. Note a slight curve in this initial section which will reflect the angle that you will be cutting.

Step 6: Tilt the head very slightly forward and then use the small teeth of the comb to create tension in the hair. Flatten the hair down onto the neck, using your scissors as an aid to stick the hair to the skin. Then cut a curved line.

Cut an A-line bob - Cut an use the back of the comb to hold the hair still

Step 7: Repeat this process on the other side. Make use of the back of your comb to hold the hair still.

Cut an A-line bob - Take sections and cut

Step 8: Continue to take sections up the head reflecting, the initial shape.

Cut an A-line bob - Check balance after cutting hair

Step 9: Once you have worked this section, release the hair to check the balance.

Cut an A-line bob - Cut to create graduation

Step 10: Continue into the centre panel, taking parallel sections. Elevate the hair using tension in the fingers, creating graduation. The graduation helps to bevel the outline and distributes the weight more evenly. It is a good practice to visually check the work after completing each section.

Cut an A-line bob - take parallel sections and cut

Step 11: Continue to take parallel sections with awareness to elevation.

Cut an A-line bob - Cut to create a shorter to longer line

Step 12: When you cut the first front section over the ear, be very mindful of the tension. Over-direct the side sections slightly backwards, creating a shorter to longer line.

Step 13: Repeat this process on the other side. The graduation runs from its widest point in the centre-back and tapers towards the front.

Cut an A-line bob - Balance and weight control of the hair

Step 14: Once you reach the roundness of the head in the back area, sub-divide the parallel sections diagonally to create smaller and more controllable sections, allowing you to be very specific with balance and weight control.

Cut an A-line bob - Maintain continuity of elevation

Step 15: Continue to maintain continuity of elevation and over-directing as you work into the front sub sections.

Cut an A-line bob - How to cut the hairstyle

Step 16: Repeat this process on the other side.

Cut an A-line bob - Check the shape of the cut

Step 17: Next continue this process up to the top horse-shoe section. Then check the shape visually.

Cut an A-line bob - Top of the head area

Step 18: Now work in the top area, taking curved sections from the front parting, working towards the back. Working from front to back allows for natural movement in the hair. Remember to always follow your guide. Pay special attention to being consistent in your over-direction, elevation, finger and body position.

Cut an A-line bob - Elevation and direction

Step 19: Continue to take curved parallel sections, again keeping your focus on elevation and over-direction.

Cut an A-line bob - Cut and maintain length

Step 20: Now work 2/3 section, then move to work on the lower side of the parting. Notice that on the heavy side of the fringe the fingers point away from the head, but on the lower side the fingers need to point in towards the head to maintain length.

Cut an A-line bob - Cut the heavy side of the parting

Step 21: After the lower side has been completed, return to work on the heavy side of the parting using the same pattern.

Step 22: In the crown area, cut your section to where it naturally falls which you will later refine once dry.

Step 23: This hairstyle can be worn textured or smooth, but it is a good idea to blow-dry and iron in order to refine and check the work as this will give the haircut a lasting quality.

Finish: A reflection on the timeless A-line shape, wrapped in a radiant blanket of pure color. A sheer brilliant technique.

Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!

See also:

How to cut a short graduated bob

How to cut a one length box bob

How to cut a dramatic A-line bob