Increase Height

Q: How do you cut the top in order to increase height? No matter who cuts my hair or how, the sides and back have body, but the top lies flatter every year. Most hairstylists give me two separate haircuts: one for the sides and back, and one for the top. But the top just lies flat and limp.

A: Generally speaking, in order to increase the height in a hairstyle, you have to cut the hair to a length that will allow it to stand under its own weight. If the hair on top is too long, gravity will pull it down and it will appear flatter. On the other hand, if the hair is cut too short, it loses the weight and density needed to prop itself up, causing it to lie flat against the scalp. Finding the perfect length is the key.

Often, as we age, our hair gradually changes. Coarse hair can become finer in texture, individual strands shrink in diameter, and follicle density decreases. This happens especially on the top of the head where androgenic thinning is most common. Hair that once had plenty of body can become more limp. These changes are normal, but they mean that the haircut and styling techniques that worked years ago may no longer give the same results.

Haircutting Techniques

The way the hair is cut makes a significant difference. A stylist can use vertical or diagonal layering to remove excess weight while preserving enough length for styling. Techniques like point cutting or notch cutting create varied lengths that support longer strands and build lift from underneath.

However, these techniques must be used very conservatively. Tools like thinning shears or heavy slide-cutting should generally be avoided on fine or aging hair. Over-texturizing reduces hair density, removing the structural base necessary to hold volume and leaving the top looking sparse.

Chemical Treatments

Often, simply cutting the hair to remove excess weight allows it to appear more voluminous. But sometimes additional treatments are needed to compensate for changes in hair texture. In your case, you might benefit from a partial perm or body wave targeted specifically to the top of the head.

A gentle acid perm wrapped on large rollers can slightly swell the hair shaft, roughing up the cuticles and adding structural thickness without creating tight curls. This subtle boost in texture helps the hair on top better match the fullness of the sides and back while making it much easier to achieve lift during styling.

Note: If you have color-treated or highlighted hair, ensure your stylist tests a strand first, as chemically altered hair processes perm solution much faster and is prone to damage.

Styling Products

Styling products and habits also play an important role. Volumizing shampoos paired with lightweight, silicone-free conditioners (applied only to the ends of the hair, never the roots) help prevent the hair from becoming weighed down.

Avoid heavy creams, pomades, oils, or silicone-rich products on the scalp. Instead, choose lightweight mousses, volumizing foams, or root-lift sprays containing polymers applied directly to damp roots before blow-drying. For an extra boost, dry shampoos or volumizing root powders used on dry hair can add immediate grip.

Blow-Drying Technique

The blow-drying technique can make just as much difference as the haircut itself. Hold the hair straight up away from the scalp at a 90-degree angle or over-direct it to the opposite side with a vent or round brush while directing warm air directly at the root zone.

Drying your hair with your head upside down can also maximize volume by setting the hair direction away from the scalp as it dries. Once the hair is 100% dry, finish with a cool shot from the dryer to lock the structure and added lift into place.

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See also:

How to blow dry hair

What can I do to add height to my crown with my round face?

Can you suggest a type of perm that would give my hair some lift?