Spike-Up Hair

A man with spiked-up hair
Photo: Karramba Production/Shutterstock
Q: When getting a very short haircut as a man, how do you get the front section to spike up naturally as the hair grows back? What technique is required?
 
A: When dealing with men's super-short haircuts, the hair naturally goes through a brief phase where it stands up on its own. This stage is determined primarily by your hair's texture, density, and follicle growth angle.
 
Because hair acts like a rigid structure at short lengths, coarse and straight hair remains upright for a significantly longer period as it grows out. Conversely, fine hair buckles under its own weight much sooner, and wavy or curly hair will begin to bend as soon as it gains slight length.
 
The length at which hair naturally stands up varies from person to person. For some men, hair may begin to spike immediately after a fresh buzz cut, while others only experience this effect for a brief window before gravity takes over.
 
Once your hair grows past the threshold where it supports itself, achieving a spiked look requires product and styling technique. You cannot permanently train your hair to grow upward, as growth direction is genetically hardwired by your follicles beneath the scalp.
 

Hair Product Selection

• Fine Hair: Stick to lightweight mousses, sea-salt sprays, or light-hold styling products. Heavy waxes, pastes, and thick gels add too much mass, weighing the hair shaft down.
 
• Coarse & Thick Hair: Use high-hold matte clays, pastes, or firm pomades. Denser hair requires higher-viscosity products to group the thick strands together and lock them upright. Matte products provide a natural finish, while traditional gels offer a shinier, firmer hold.
 
Hair growth patterns
 

Styling & Heat Technique

The way you dry your hair makes a massive difference. Applying a light pre-styling product to damp hair and directing the front upward with your fingers while blow-drying on medium heat temporarily breaks and resets your hair's hydrogen bonds into an upright shape. Once dry, apply a small amount of your finishing product to lock the style in place.
 

Growth Patterns & Follicle Angles

The final factor is the natural direction of your hair shaft as it emerges from the follicle. Scalps feature varying growth patterns, cowlicks, and angles, especially along the front hairline. Hair that naturally grows forward or flat will require more heat styling to spike up than hair that naturally emerges at an upward angle.
 
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See also:
 
How to analyze your hair
 
How do I figure out how the hair grows on the crown of my head?
 
Will I be able to achieve a spiky look with my fine hair?