Determining Your Hair Color Type

Young woman with brown hair wearing a shiny blue turtleneck
Photo: Ranta Images/Shutterstock
Q: I'm really struggling to figure out whether I'm a silver or gold person. My hair is a very dark brown and I have blue eyes. When I wear jewelry, silver stands out more and looks better on me, but when I'm out in the sunlight, my hair seems to have red tones in it. I'm thinking about coloring my hair but I'm completely lost about what type of color would work best for me. Can you help me figure this out?
 
A: Determining your hair color type can be challenging, especially when you have mixed signals like you're describing. The combination of cool-toned features like blue eyes and a preference for silver jewelry, paired with warm red undertones in your hair, puts you in what colorists often call a "neutral" category. This gives you more flexibility than you might think, but it also means you need to be more strategic about your choices.
 
The key to solving your dilemma lies in taking a closer look at those red tones that appear in your hair when you're in natural sunlight. Find a handheld mirror and step outside on a bright, sunny day, preferably around midday when the light is strongest. Position yourself so the sunlight hits your hair directly, and examine those red tones carefully.
 
What you're looking for is the specific type of red you're seeing. Is it a true, clear red that reminds you of a fire engine or a red rose? If so, you're likely dealing with red undertones that lean neutral to slightly warm. Does the red have an orange quality to it, perhaps resembling a copper coin or autumn leaves? This indicates warmer, golden undertones in your hair. On the other hand, if the red appears more muted or has a slight purple or burgundy quality to it, you're probably seeing cooler red undertones that would pair beautifully with your silver jewelry preference.
 
Sometimes the red might appear to shift between these different tones depending on the angle of the light or how you move your head. This is completely normal and actually indicates that your hair has complex undertones, which is why you've been having trouble categorizing yourself.
 
Hair color in natural sunlight
 
If you're still having difficulty identifying the exact nature of these red tones after your sunlight examination, there's a solution that can provide you with professional-level information. Take a trip to your local beauty supply store or drugstore. Head to the hair color aisle and look for the color charts or swatch books that are typically displayed on the shelves or hanging nearby. Many brands like Clairol, L'Oréal, and Revlon provide these tools to help customers make informed choices.
 
When you find these swatches, spend some time comparing them to your hair color. Look for the shade that most closely matches your natural color, paying particular attention to how the color appears in the store's lighting versus what you observed in natural sunlight. Once you've identified the closest match, look at the corresponding information on the chart. You'll find technical details about the color, including what's called the "level" (how light or dark it is) and the "base" or "undertone" (the underlying color that gives it its character).
 
This information is very valuable because it tells you exactly what you're working with. For example, you might discover that your hair is a level 3 (dark) brown with red-orange undertones, or perhaps a level 2 (very dark) brown with red-violet undertones. This knowledge becomes your roadmap for choosing a new hair color that will complement your natural base.
 
Once you've identified your hair's base color, you have several directions you can go with your color choice. The safest approach is to stay within the same undertone family. If your hair has warm red-orange undertones, you can choose warmer shades like rich chocolates, auburn, or even golden browns. If your undertones are cooler and more red-violet, you might consider deeper browns with ash tones, or even explore colors with subtle purple or burgundy highlights.
 
You also have the option of going neutral, which might be perfect for someone like you who seems to straddle the line between warm and cool. Neutral hair colors are specifically formulated to minimize strong undertones, creating a more balanced look that can complement both warm and cool accessories and clothing. These colors often work particularly well for people who have mixed signals in their coloring, like your combination of blue eyes and red hair undertones.
 
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See also:
 
Hair colors and coloring
 
Hair colors and our color palette
 
The relation between our hair, skin and clothes color