Relaxing Fine Curly Hair

Woman who has fine curly hair
Photo: Sylv1rob1/Shutterstock
Q: I have very fine, curly hair, and my hairstylist suggested that I let it grow out and then get it relaxed. She said it would look great, but I’m worried that since my hair is so fine, it might fall out. Is relaxing hair dangerous?
 
A: The safety and success of any chemical hair service - whether it’s coloring, perming, straightening, relaxing, or bleaching - depend primarily on the expertise of the stylist performing the treatment.
 
Because your hair is fine-textured, it will likely absorb chemical treatments more easily and process faster than thicker or coarser hair would. When performed by a skilled stylist, relaxing fine hair is generally no more damaging than perming it. However, extra care must be taken to avoid over-processing, as fine hair is more delicate and prone to breakage if exposed to chemicals for too long.
 
The good news is that there have been significant advancements in cosmetic science, leading to gentler, more effective products that deliver better results than older, harsher formulations. For example, the Yuko System (also known as Japanese Thermal Reconstruction) is a highly regarded straightening method that preserves hair health while reducing frizz and curls. Similarly, L'Oréal Professional’s X-Tenso and Texturesmooth lines are specifically designed to straighten curly hair or tame frizz without excessive damage.
 
That said, even the best products can’t compensate for poor technique. Before committing to a relaxer, do some research on your stylist. Ask for client references who have undergone the same treatment, or request before-and-after photos to gauge the work quality. If you already have a trusted stylist whose results you like, you may feel more confident proceeding under their guidance.
 
One important recommendation: Avoid hydroxide relaxers (such as sodium or calcium hydroxide). These chemicals permanently alter the hair’s internal bonds to eliminate curls, making it nearly impossible to restore your natural texture later. If you ever want to return to curly hair, you’d have to grow out the relaxed strands and cut them off before getting a perm, as perming over hydroxide-treated hair can cause severe damage.
 
For fine hair, consider thio-based relaxers or keratin-based smoothing treatments as milder alternatives. These options straighten hair with less structural disruption, allowing for more flexibility if you change your mind later.
 
If your stylist is experienced with fine, curly hair and uses high-quality products, relaxing can be a safe and satisfying option. Just be sure to weigh the long-term commitment and care requirements before making your decision.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
Permanent hair straightening
 
What is Japanese Thermal Reconstruction?