Perm Chemically Straightened Hair

Preparing hair for a perm
Photo: Let Geo Create/Shutterstock
Q: I got my hair chemically straightened about 6 months ago, and I'm really missing my curls. Would I be able to get it permed now, or how much longer do I have to wait? I'm dying to get my curls back!
 
A: The answer to your question depends entirely on what type of chemical straightening process was used on your hair six months ago. This is actually one of the most important distinctions in hair chemistry, and getting it wrong could result in serious damage to your hair.
 
If your hair was straightened using a non-hydroxide based system, such as a keratin treatment, Japanese thermal reconditioning, or certain types of chemical relaxers that don't contain sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, or lithium hydroxide, then you're generally in the clear. These processes work differently at the molecular level and don't create the same chemical incompatibility issues. In this case, you could potentially get a perm as soon as your hair is healthy enough to handle another chemical process.
 
However, if your hair was straightened with a hydroxide-based relaxer, which is extremely common in many professional salons, you'll need to exercise much more caution. Hydroxide relaxers work by permanently breaking and rearranging the disulfide bonds in your hair shaft. When these products come into contact with ammonium thioglycolate, which is the active ingredient in most traditional perming solutions, they create a highly destructive chemical reaction.
 
This reaction doesn't just damage your hair temporarily. It can completely destroy the hair's structural integrity, leading to severe breakage, dissolution of the hair shaft, and in some cases, chemical burns to the scalp. The hair literally cannot withstand the conflicting chemical processes, and the result is often hair that breaks off at the point where the two chemicals meet.
 
Hair before and after a sleek to curly perm
 
If you're unsure about what type of straightening treatment you received, the best course of action is to contact the salon or stylist who performed the service. They should have detailed records of exactly which products were used. You can also ask to see the product packaging or get the specific brand and product name. When in doubt, many professional stylists will perform a strand test using a small, hidden section of hair to see how it reacts to perm solution.
 
For those who did have hydroxide-based straightening, the waiting game becomes much longer and more complex. Since the chemical incompatibility affects the entire hair shaft that was treated, you would need to wait until all of the chemically straightened hair has grown out completely before you could safely perm your hair. Given that hair typically grows at a rate of about half an inch or 1.25 cm per month, this process can take anywhere from one to several years, depending on your hair length and how much length you're willing to sacrifice through trims.
 
Some people choose to gradually transition by getting regular trims to remove the straightened portions more quickly, though this means dealing with shorter hair for a while. Others opt for heat styling or temporary curling methods to achieve texture while they wait for their natural hair to grow out.
 
The safest approach is always to consult with a highly experienced stylist who specializes in chemical services and can evaluate your specific situation. They can perform proper tests, assess your hair's current condition, and help you determine the best timeline for achieving the curly look you're craving while keeping your hair as healthy as possible.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
More about perms
 
Hair straightening
 
The scientific processes that occur during perming and relaxing