Henna Color and Perming Hair

Q: Hello, I really need some advice and hope you can help me. I’m a 29-year-old African woman who moved to Europe several years ago. Before coming here, I never experienced this particular hair issue. Since there are very few African hairstylists in my area, I’ve had to start perming my hair myself.

Several months ago, I used henna to color my hair. Recently, I noticed something unusual after washing my hair. I shampooed it but didn’t straighten it or use rollers as I normally would. When my hair dried completely, I could feel that the right side at the back of my head felt completely natural, as if I had never permed that section at all. Now this problem seems to be spreading to other areas of my hair. Could I have made a mistake? What might be causing this, and how can I fix it?

A: There’s an issue with applying permanent waves after using henna hair color. The henna creates a protective coating around each hair strand that can actually block the perm chemicals from properly penetrating and restructuring your hair. What’s particularly interesting about your situation is that it took several months for these effects to become noticeable, which isn’t the typical timeline we see with henna-perm interactions.

The most likely explanation is that the henna coating prevented your hair from fully absorbing the perm solution when you last treated it. This incomplete processing would explain why certain sections are now reverting to their natural texture more quickly than others. The solution is to thoroughly remove any remaining henna residue before attempting another perm treatment.

The most effective removal method involves saturating your hair with mineral oil, then covering your head with a plastic cap to create a warm, sealed environment. You’ll want to leave this treatment on for a minimum of thirty minutes while occasionally applying heat with a hair dryer to help break down the henna. After the treatment time has elapsed, you should wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo, which is specially formulated to cut through oils and product buildup. Be prepared to shampoo two or three times to completely remove all the mineral oil.

Because clarifying shampoos can be quite drying, it’s absolutely essential to follow up with a rich, moisturizing conditioner to restore hydration to your hair. This conditioning step will help prevent dryness and maintain your hair’s elasticity.

As a general rule for future perming, whether you’ve used henna or not, always begin with a clarifying shampoo treatment. This preliminary step removes any oils, silicones, or styling product residues that might interfere with the perm solution’s ability to properly process your hair. A thorough cleansing ensures your hair is in the optimal condition to receive and maintain the perm.

If after trying these steps you’re still experiencing issues with your perm not taking evenly, you might want to consider doing a strand test first or consulting with a professional stylist who can examine your hair’s condition more closely. Some hair types may require specialized treatment approaches, especially when dealing with previous processes like henna applications.

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See also:

Hair horrors

What are the best color removers, especially for henna and black tint?