Perm and Hair Gel

Permed hair styled with gel — Photo: Ardni/Shutterstock

Q: I was just wondering if having perms is bad for your hair. And can you use hair gel with a perm? Thank you very much.

A: Let's be honest about this, any chemical treatment is going to have some impact on your hair's health. The reality is that perms, like all chemical services including coloring will change your hair in ways that can make it more vulnerable to damage. However, that doesn't mean you should avoid perms entirely if you want them. Understanding what happens during the process and how to properly care for your hair afterward makes all the difference.

The extent of potential damage depends on several crucial factors. First, the specific type of perm solution being used matters enormously. Modern perm formulations are generally gentler than the harsh chemicals used decades ago. Second, the skill and experience of your stylist plays a huge role in the outcome. A knowledgeable stylist will assess your hair's condition, choose the appropriate perm solution for your hair type, and time the process correctly to achieve the desired results without unnecessary damage.

The fundamental issue with all chemical hair treatments, including perms, is that they must alter the hair's natural structure to work. During a perm, the chemical solution breaks down the disulfide bonds in your hair shaft that give it its natural shape. This process requires the cuticle layer – the protective outer coating of each hair strand – to be lifted and opened so the chemicals can penetrate deep into the hair's cortex. Once the hair is wrapped around perm rods and the solution has processed, a neutralizer is applied to reform those bonds in their new curved shape.

While the neutralizing step is designed to close the cuticle layer back down, it rarely returns the hair to its exact pre-treatment condition. This leaves the hair more porous than it was naturally, meaning it can absorb and lose moisture more easily. You might notice that your hair feels different after a perm. Sometimes it feels drier, sometimes with a slightly different texture even beyond the new curl pattern.

Permed short and curly blonde hair with gel styling — Image: AI illustration

Now, regarding your question about using hair gel with a perm. Yes, you can and often should use styling products with permed hair. In fact, most people find that their permed hair looks better with some type of styling product to enhance the curl pattern.

Hair gels work by coating the hair shaft with polymers that dry to form a flexible film, helping to hold your style in place and reduce frizz. This is particularly helpful for permed hair, which can sometimes appear frizzy if left unstyled. The key is choosing the right type of gel and applying it correctly.

For permed hair, look for gels that are specifically formulated for curly or chemically treated hair. These products often contain additional moisturizing ingredients and are less likely to be overly drying. Alcohol-based gels, while they provide strong hold, can be too harsh for permed hair and may contribute to dryness and breakage over time.

Apply the gel while your hair is still quite damp. This helps distribute the product evenly. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to work the gel through your hair, making sure to coat each curl from root to tip. The amount you use will depend on your hair's length and thickness, but start with less than you think you need. You can always add more, but removing excess product requires rewashing your hair.

After applying the gel, you have several styling options. You can air-dry your hair for the most natural look. If you prefer to use a blow dryer, a diffuser attachment is absolutely essential. Direct heat from a regular blow dryer can disrupt the curl pattern and cause frizz, while a diffuser distributes the airflow more gently and helps maintain the curl structure.

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See also:

What is the difference between pomade and hair gel?

After-care for colored or chemically treated hair