How to Take Care of Permed Hair

Permed hair, covered by a night cap — Photo: Voyagerix/Shutterstock

Q: I recently had my hair permed for the first time and would like to know how best to take care of my hair to keep it strong, growing and healthy. I seem to be having a lot of problems with a dry, itchy scalp since having my hair permed, and I would like to know what products you would recommend to treat my scalp.

I have also noticed that when I'm styling my hair in the mornings, I have a lot of hair coming out in my comb. I use a wide-tooth comb, which I was told was best to use. I'm not sure why this is happening since I do use a satin sleep cap, which is supposed to keep the hair from breaking.

Could you please give me advice on correcting this? Or is this normal? I do use a ceramic flat iron once or twice a week, but I keep the setting between 1 and 5, and I use a product that protects against heat. So I don't think that's the problem. Please help! Thank you for your response.

A: What you're experiencing is actually quite common after getting your first perm, so please don't panic. Understanding what happens to your hair during the perming process will help you better care for it moving forward.

When your hair is permed, the chemical process fundamentally changes its structure. The perming solution works by breaking down the disulfide bonds in your hair shaft, which are then reformed in a new curved pattern to create the curl. During this process, the cuticle layer of your hair - that's the protective outer coating - becomes raised and roughened to allow the chemicals to penetrate deeply into the hair cortex. Even after the neutralizing process is complete, your hair cuticles remain somewhat elevated and damaged, making your hair much more vulnerable to moisture loss, tangling, and breakage.

The dry, itchy scalp you're experiencing is a direct result of chemical irritation from the perming solution. These harsh chemicals don't just affect your hair. They also impact the uppermost layers of your scalp skin, causing dryness and cellular damage. The itching and any flaking you might notice are your scalp's way of shedding these damaged cells and trying to heal itself. This reaction can persist for several weeks after your perm.

Regarding the hair loss you're noticing during combing, this is unfortunately normal in the weeks following a perm. Your hair is in a temporarily weakened state, and even with gentle handling, some breakage and shedding are to be expected. The fact that you're using a wide-tooth comb and a satin sleep cap shows you're already taking the right precautions, but permed hair requires even more care than you might realize.

First, let's address your scalp concerns. I recommend applying a lightweight, non-comedogenic scalp oil or serum every evening before bed. Look for products containing ingredients like jojoba oil, tea tree oil, or aloe vera, which can soothe irritation without clogging your hair follicles. Apply the treatment using your fingertips in gentle circular motions, focusing on the areas that feel most itchy

Woman with short curly hair, after getting a perm — Image: AI illustration

For your hair itself, you'll need moisture replacement. The raised cuticles on your permed hair act like tiny hooks that can catch on each other, leading to tangles and breakage. Before you even think about combing your hair, whether wet or dry, apply a leave-in conditioner or smoothing serum from mid-length to ends. This creates a protective barrier and helps smooth down those raised cuticles. When your hair is wet, it's at its most vulnerable state, so be extra gentle and never comb through it without some form of protection.

I strongly recommend implementing a weekly deep conditioning routine. Choose a protein-free, moisture-rich conditioner and apply it generously to damp hair, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends where the damage is usually most concentrated. Use a wide-tooth comb to gently distribute the product through your hair, then cover with a plastic shower cap. Wrap your head in a warm towel that's been dampened with hot water, or sit under a hair dryer on low heat for 20 to 30 minutes. This heat treatment opens up the hair cuticles slightly, allowing the moisturizing ingredients to penetrate deeper into the hair shaft.

Between your weekly deep conditioning sessions, consider doing lighter conditioning treatments two to three times per week. You can use your regular conditioner for this, leaving it on for about five to ten minutes before rinsing.

Regarding your styling routine, I'm glad to hear you're keeping your flat iron on a low setting and using heat protection. However, I'd recommend reducing heat styling even further during the first month after your perm. Try to limit flat ironing and when you do use it, make sure your hair is completely dry and well-protected with a high-quality heat protectant.

Taking care of permed hair is a learning process, and what you're experiencing now is temporary. With consistent care and patience, your hair will adapt to its new structure and become more manageable. The key is maintaining adequate moisture, minimizing mechanical and thermal damage, and giving your hair the time it needs to recover from the perm process.

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See also:

How to maintain a perm

How many hairs do we lose per day?