Overprocessed Hair

African-American woman with finely-textured hair
Photo: Ltim/Shutterstock
Q: I have fine-textured African-American hair that I've been relaxing every 8 to 10 weeks for the past year. Lately, I've noticed that my relaxer isn't working the way it used to. My hair doesn't seem to be taking to the chemical treatment anymore, and it's not getting as straight as it once did. The edges have lost their shine and look dull, while the back section, where my hair is naturally thickest, remains kinky and really difficult to manage no matter what I do.
 
I can't wear my hair down anymore because it simply won't hold any type of curl, whether I use rollers, a curling iron, or any other styling method. What's really concerning me is that my hair seems to be getting thinner and more fragile over time. While the fine texture does make it easier to blow-dry straight and style with flat irons and curling irons, especially in the front sections, the results just aren't the same as when my hair would properly respond to relaxer treatments.
 
I'm starting to think my hair might be overprocessed, but I'm not sure. What steps should I take to address this? Would you recommend cutting my hair really short? I'm actually open to that option if it would help my hair get back to a healthier state.
 
A: Based on your detailed description, it sounds like you're dealing with classic signs of overprocessed hair, and your instincts are absolutely correct. When hair stops responding properly to relaxer treatments and loses its ability to hold curls or maintain styles, these are strong indicators that the hair shaft has been compromised by repeated chemical processing. The thinning, loss of shine, and increased fragility you're experiencing are all telltale signs that your hair's protein structure has been damaged.
 
Overprocessing occurs when hair is subjected to chemical treatments too frequently or when the chemicals are left on too long, gradually breaking down the hair's natural protein bonds. This damage accumulates over time, which explains why you've noticed these changes developing over the past year. The fact that your hair is becoming more resistant to relaxer treatments while simultaneously becoming more fragile is a clear sign that it's time to reassess your hair care approach.
 
You have several options moving forward, and the best choice depends on your personal preferences and how committed you are to the recovery process. The first approach involves implementing a comprehensive hair rehabilitation program while maintaining your current hair length. This method requires patience, as you'll need to establish a strict regimen focused on deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and protective styling techniques. You'll want to space out your relaxer treatments significantly, perhaps extending the time between applications to 12 to 16 weeks instead of your current 8 to 10 week schedule.
 
During this rehabilitation period, you can rely on heat styling tools to achieve straight looks, but it's crucial to use proper heat protection and keep temperatures moderate to avoid causing additional damage. Regular trims every 6 to 8 weeks will help remove the most damaged ends while allowing healthier new growth to emerge.
 
The second option involves making a more dramatic change by cutting your hair short enough to remove most or all of the overprocessed sections. This approach offers the immediate benefit of eliminating damaged hair and starting fresh with healthier hair. A shorter haircut can actually be incredibly liberating and may reveal a more vibrant, manageable texture that you haven't seen in years. Many women find that shorter hairstyles are easier to maintain and require less daily manipulation, which can promote better hair health in the long run.
 
Protective styling will become your best friend during the recovery process. Styles that keep your hair ends tucked away and minimize daily manipulation can significantly reduce breakage and promote retention of new growth. Consider using silk or satin pillowcases and hair wraps to reduce friction while you sleep.
 
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See also:
 
Overprocessed hair
 
Deep conditioning
 
Permanent hair straightening