Blowdry or Airdry Hair

Woman with wet hair
 
Q: Is it better to blowdry your hair or airdry? If blowdrying, then how should I blowdry so that my hair stays straight and doesn't go frizzy?
 
A: Well, from a hair health standpoint, airdrying the hair is less harsh on the hair and results in smoother, healthier looking hair. The natural drying process allows the hair cuticles to lay flat without the disruption of heat and force from a blow dryer, which means less damage to the structure of each strand.
 
Airdried hair also tends to maintain its natural moisture balance better, leading to a shinier appearance over time. If you've got the time and your hair texture cooperates, airdrying is the gentler option for maintaining long-term hair health.
 
However, properly protected, the hair can be blown dry safely without significant damage. The key is understanding that blowdrying isn't inherently bad for your hair. It's improper technique and lack of protection that cause problems.
 
Many people prefer blowdrying because it offers more control over the final style, will reduce drying time significantly (which is especially important for those with thick or long hair), and can create volume and smoothness that's difficult to achieve with airdrying alone.
 
Woman with long wet hair wearing silk pajamas
 
To keep the hair straight and smooth during the blowdrying process, always direct the airflow away from the scalp along the hair shaft, moving downward from roots to ends. This prevents the air from pushing against the overlapping scales of the cuticle layer and raising them, which makes the hair frizzy and rough.
 
Think of your hair cuticle like roof shingles. They overlap in one direction, and you have to blow the air in the direction those "shingles" point, not against them. When you blast air upward or at random angles, you're ruffling those cuticle scales, creating a rough texture.
 
Before you even turn on the blow dryer, apply a heat protectant to damp (not soaking wet) hair. This creates a protective barrier between your hair and the heat, minimizing damage. The hair should be about 60-70% dry before you start using the blow dryer and excess water should be gently squeezed out with a soft towel rather than rubbed dry vigorously.
 
Blow dryer with a nozzle and diffuser attachment
 
You should also use a concentrator nozzle attachment (the flat, narrow attachment that comes with most hair dryers) rather than a diffuser when you're trying to achieve straight hair. The concentrator directs the airflow precisely along the hair shaft, while a diffuser is designed to scatter airflow and is better suited for enhancing natural curl and wave patterns.
 
Keep the hair dryer moving constantly and never hold it in one spot for more than a second or two, as concentrated heat on one area can cause damage and create overheated spots that lead to hair breakage over time.
 
Work in sections, starting from the bottom layers and working your way up, and use a paddle brush or round brush to tension the hair as you dry. The combination of heat, tension, and downward airflow is what creates a sleek, straight finish. Keep the dryer at least 6 inches or 15 centimeters away from your hair and use a medium heat setting rather than the highest one.
 
For more information on drying the hair with a blow dryer and other heat styling processes, check out our other articles on the topic.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
How to blow dry hair
 
How to blow dry hair straight
 
What are the physical effects of blowdrying on the hair structure?