Adding Layers to Hair

How to cut vertical layers
 
Q: I currently have long, wavy hair that’s cut to the same length all over. Unfortunately, this creates a triangular shape that I’m not happy with. I’d like to add layers to my hair to improve the shape, but I don’t want to lose much length in the process.
 
I’ve read about square layers and vertical layers on your site. What’s the difference in terms of the final look, and which option would work best for my hair type?

 
A: The key difference between square layers and vertical layers lies in the cutting technique and the way they affect your hair’s shape.
 
• Square layers (sometimes called "box layers") are created by holding the hair at a 180-degree elevation and cutting along a horizontal line. This method keeps the baseline of your hair (the very ends) intact while adding layers above it. Square layers tend to produce smoother, more blended transitions between layers, which helps reduce bulk without drastically altering the overall length.
 
• Vertical layers, on the other hand, involve holding the hair at an elevation between 45 and 135 degrees and cutting along a vertical line (perpendicular to the floor). This technique allows for more control over weight distribution in the hairstyle, making it useful for adjusting where the hair appears thicker or thinner. Vertical layers can also be cut in a "box" style, but they don’t have to be. It depends on the desired effect.
 
How to cut square layers
 
In terms of final results, both methods can create movement and remove excess weight, but square layers typically offer a softer, more uniform look, while vertical layers provide more flexibility in shaping and texture.
 
For your long, wavy hair, I’d initially recommend square (box) layers because they’ll help distribute bulk evenly while maintaining length. However, since waves can sometimes behave unpredictably with layering, you might also discuss light thinning with your stylist. Just be clear that you only want minimal thinning to avoid over-texturizing your hair.
 
The best approach is to consult your stylist in detail about the exact silhouette you want. Bring reference photos if possible, and explain that you’re looking to reduce the triangular shape while keeping as much length as you can. A skilled stylist can then tailor the layering technique to suit your hair’s texture and your personal preferences.
 
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See also:
 
How to layer long hair
 
Could you guide me on how to cut vertical layers?
 
Can you explain vertical layering for long hair?