Short Graduated Shape with Disconnection
![Short graduated hair with disconnection](disconnection.jpg)
Step by step guide on how to cut a short graduated shape haircut with disconnection, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
A beautifully balanced sleek graduated classic shape with disconnected areas. A haircut full of technique and discipline, which is a basic fundamental skill needed in today's hairdressing. This is a modern day take on a classic, bringing old school purism into a loose and fast world.
![Haircut with disconnection - Before](disconnection-haircut-before.jpg)
Before: Lauren before the cut.
![Haircut with disconnection - How to start cutting](disconnection-haircut-step1.jpg)
Step 1: Start by sectioning a small disconnected area in front of the ear.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cut the front side panel](disconnection-haircut-step2.jpg)
Step 2: Begin with the front side panel. Take a horizontal section and, using elevation and tension, cut a square line.
![Haircut with disconnection - Refine the cut section](disconnection-haircut-step3.jpg)
Step 3: Next, refine this initial section.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cut with elevation and over-direction](disconnection-haircut-step4.jpg)
Step 4: Taking parallel sections, continue this process to the parting, using the previous section as a guide. Elevate and over-direct downwards.
![Haircut with disconnection - Check the balance of the cut](disconnection-haircut-step5.jpg)
Step 5: Continually check the balance, visually and technically.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cut the side](disconnection-haircut-step6.jpg)
Step 6: Then, repeat the same process on the opposite side.
![Haircut with disconnection - Check the balance of the haircut](disconnection-haircut-step7.jpg)
Step 7: Check the balance, as these first two panels are key to the entire internal shape.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cut a vertical section into the nape](disconnection-haircut-step8.jpg)
Step 8: Returning to the first side and using a horizontal section as a guide, cut a vertical section into the nape. Use the same elevation and angle your fingers into the nape. Please note that the initial vertical sections are slightly diagonal.
![Haircut with disconnection - Accommodate the head shape](disconnection-haircut-step9.jpg)
Step 9: Using the previous section as a guide, continue with parallel sections. Please note as you move into the back, the sections become more vertical in order to accommodate the head shape and to give a flatter graduation.
![Haircut with disconnection - Angle fingers towards the nape](disconnection-haircut-step10.jpg)
Step 10: Please note the way in which Stacey slightly twists his section and angles his fingers towards the nape to create his flat graduation.
![Haircut with disconnection - Check the hair](disconnection-haircut-step11.jpg)
Step 11: Check the hair as it dries to assess the build up of weight.
![Haircut with disconnection - How to cut](disconnection-haircut-step12.jpg)
Step 12: Once you have reached the top of the horizontal section, take the next section from the parting and use the previous section as a guide. Please note you can now see that the section has become vertical.
![Haircut with disconnection - Angle your fingers into the head](disconnection-haircut-step13.jpg)
Step 13: Be careful to angle your fingers into the head in order to maintain length at the top of the section to achieve a flat graduation.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cutting process](disconnection-haircut-step14.jpg)
Step 14: Continue with this process until you reach the round of the head in the back.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cutting instruction](disconnection-haircut-step15.jpg)
Step 15: Repeat the same process on the other side. Note that you need to pay constant
attention to growth patterns and density of hair, especially around the hairline.
![Haircut with disconnection - Over-direct the cut sections](disconnection-haircut-step16.jpg)
Step 16: Return to the first side and repeat this process through to the centre back. Please note you should over-direct the sections to keep the internal shape round in the back to enhance the head shape.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cut the second side](disconnection-haircut-step17.jpg)
Step 17: Repeat this process on the second side.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cross-check the internal shape](disconnection-haircut-step18.jpg)
Step 18: Next work diagonally to cross-check the internal shape. This allows you to check the symmetry.
![Haircut with disconnection - Refine the outline of the cut](disconnection-haircut-step19.jpg)
Step 19: Next refine the outline which can be cut in a variety of ways. In this case, Stacey chooses a defined line.
![Haircut with disconnection - Create a diagonal section across the head](disconnection-haircut-step20.jpg)
Step 20: Bring down the top area and create a diagonal section across the head, which incorporates part of the fringe section.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cut from temple to bridge of the nose](disconnection-haircut-step21.jpg)
Step 21: Take fine sub-sections and, using the previous sections through the temple area as a guide, cut a line from the temple to the bridge of the nose.
![Haircut with disconnection - Hair cuting process](disconnection-haircut-step22.jpg)
Step 22: Continue with this process, using the previous section as a guide and with a small amount of tension.
![Haircut with disconnection - Check and refine the outline](disconnection-haircut-step23.jpg)
Step 23: Next, dry the hair in order to check and refine the outline in the fringe and the areas around the ear.
![Haircut with disconnection - Connect hair to the underneath](disconnection-haircut-step24.jpg)
Step 24: Now connect the remaining hair on the parting side to the underneath. Start from a point just off the crown and pivot the sections towards the front hairline.
![Haircut with disconnection - Cut asymmetrically](disconnection-haircut-step25.jpg)
Step 25: Work asymmetrically for a sleeker look.
![Haircut with disconnection - Pivot around towards the back](disconnection-haircut-step26.jpg)
Step 26: Return to the same point just off the crown and continue pivoting around towards the back.
![Haircut with disconnection - Refine and blend corners](disconnection-haircut-step27.jpg)
Step 27: Refine and blend any corners of disconnection with free-hand techniques.
![Haircut with disconnection - Dry and iron the hair](disconnection-haircut-step28.jpg)
Step 28: Dry and iron the hair, using Corioliss mini irons which are ergonomic for delicate areas.
![Haircut with disconnection - Flat iron the disconnected hair sections](disconnection-haircut-step29.jpg)
Step 29: Use the large C2s for the longer disconnected sections.
![Short haircut with longer disconnected sections](disconnection-haircut.jpg)
Finish: The result is a beautifully balanced, sleek, graduated classic shape with longer disconnected areas.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!