Shoe Shine Polish Hair Color

Applying hair color
Photo: Schankz/Shutterstock
Q: I have hair that is quite blonde (bleached/highlighted) but is naturally a medium brown. I want to dye it an all-over chocolate brown with a few subtly lighter pieces underneath for dimension. My hairdresser said this would be achievable but mentioned that I would need to dye it red first and then apply the brown shade.
 
Is this step really necessary? I’m concerned about ending up with unwanted red tones, for example, when sunlight hits my hair. The reason I initially went blonde was to bleach out some red streaks that I disliked, so I want to avoid reintroducing redness.
 
Additionally, years ago, when I had my hair colored from blonde to brown, the colorist used a technique I believe they referred to as "shoe shine polish." They applied the hair color by rubbing it into my hair with cotton wool and their fingers. After rinsing, they applied a glosser on top. Could this method not be used again instead of the two-step red-then-brown process?
 
A: Since you’ve specified that you want a "chocolate brown" shade, it’s important to note that most chocolate brown hues in hair color have a warm, red-based undertone. This is likely why your stylist is recommending a red base first - to ensure the brown adheres evenly and achieves the desired richness. However, I can’t say for certain whether a separate red application is strictly necessary without seeing your hair in person.
 
That said, if you’re determined to avoid red tones altogether, you should ask your stylist to show you their color swatch book. This will allow you to examine how different brown shades- especially those with neutral or cool (ash) bases - look on actual hair strands. A neutral-based brown (one without strong red or gold undertones) might be a better fit for your preferences.
 
Since I can’t assess your hair’s current condition or porosity, I wouldn’t dismiss your stylist’s recommendation outright. Instead, I’d encourage you to have a detailed conversation with them. Ask why they believe the red step is essential and whether there’s an alternative formula that could achieve chocolate brown without accentuating red tones. A skilled colorist can often customize a shade by blending different tones to match your vision.
 
As for the "shoe shine polish" technique you described - where color was manually buffed into the hair before glossing - this method is less common today. Modern hair color formulations and application techniques have advanced significantly, often combining color deposit and shine in a single step. That said, if you loved the results of that process, discuss it with your stylist.
 
While traditional "shoe shine polishing" may not be standard anymore, many salons now offer gloss treatments that can be layered over color for added vibrancy and shine. A clear gloss or demi-permanent glaze can enhance your brown shade while providing long-lasting luminosity without altering the tone.
 
Clear communication with your stylist is key. Bring reference photos, review color swatches together, and ask about alternatives to achieve your ideal chocolate brown while minimizing unwanted warmth.
 
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See also:
 
Hair coloring
 
The hair color wheel
 
The pros and cons of a cellophane treatment