Sectioning Hair for a Spiral Perm
A: Creating beautiful spiral curls requires careful planning and proper sectioning techniques that differ significantly from traditional perming methods. While the basic principles of sectioning remain similar to other perm services, the unique nature of spiral perms demands a completely different approach to both the sectioning pattern and the wrapping sequence.
Begin by creating your initial parting at the nape of the neck, establishing a horizontal section that runs from ear to ear across the back of the head. This bottom section should be approximately one to two inches wide, depending on the density and length of the hair you're working with. The key is to ensure that each section is narrow enough to allow the wrapped rods to hang freely without tangling with adjacent sections or interfering with your ability to wrap the sections above.
As you progress upward from the nape, continue creating horizontal sections that mirror the natural curve of the head. Each subsequent section should be positioned so that when the rods are wrapped and hanging down, they won't interfere with your ability to access and wrap the hair in the sections above them. This systematic bottom-to-top approach prevents the frustrating tangle of rods that can occur if you attempt to work in the traditional top-down manner.
When it comes to using regular perm rods for spiral wrapping, the technique requires some adaptation from traditional methods. Since standard perm rods weren't specifically designed for vertical spiral wrapping, you'll need to modify your wrapping angle and technique. Instead of wrapping the hair straight around the rod horizontally, you'll wrap the hair at a diagonal angle, creating the characteristic spiral pattern as you wind the hair around the rod from bottom to top.
The angle of your wrap is critical to achieving the desired spiral effect. Generally, you'll want to maintain approximately a 45-degree angle as you wind the hair around the rod, though this can be adjusted based on the tightness of spiral you want to achieve. A steeper angle will create tighter, more pronounced spirals, while a gentler angle will produce looser, more relaxed waves.
For longer hair lengths, you'll likely encounter situations where a single rod cannot accommodate the entire section of hair. In these cases, the piggyback method becomes essential. Start wrapping the hair around your first rod, beginning at the ends and working toward the scalp. When the rod becomes full or you reach a point where continuing would create excessive bulk, secure that rod and introduce a second rod to complete the wrapping process.
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See also:
How to wrap a perm
How to wrap a spiral perm
Perm rods with a spiral groove to wrap a spiral perm