Scab Hair

African-American hair
Photo: Julia Lutgendorf/Shutterstock
Q: I'm an African American woman, and I recently decided to stop relaxing my hair. However, my natural roots don’t look or feel the way I expected. They’re dry, wiry, and hard to manage. A friend mentioned that I might have "scab hair." What exactly is scab hair? Is there any way to restore my hair’s health, or will I need to cut it all off and start fresh?
 
A: Scab hair is a term commonly used in the natural hair community to describe the new hair growth that emerges after discontinuing relaxers. This hair often appears excessively dry, coarse, and wiry, making it difficult to style or manage. Unlike healthy natural hair, scab hair may resist moisturizing treatments, refuse to hold curls, or fail to straighten evenly, no matter what products or techniques you use.
 
The exact cause of scab hair isn’t scientifically proven, but many experts and experienced individuals in the natural hair community believe it results from long-term chemical relaxer use. Relaxers contain strong alkaline ingredients (like sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide) that alter the hair’s natural structure by breaking down protein bonds. Over time, these chemicals may penetrate deeper into the scalp, potentially affecting the hair follicles and altering the texture of new growth. While the scalp eventually heals, the initial hair that grows out immediately after quitting relaxers may appear damaged or unhealthy. Hence the term "scab hair," comparing it to a scab that forms over a healing wound.
 
The good news is that scab hair is usually temporary. For most people, as the scalp continues to recover, newer hair growth will gradually return to its natural, healthy texture. However, this process takes time - typically several months to a year - depending on your hair’s growth rate and how long you used relaxers. Unfortunately, the only way to fully remove scab hair is to trim it away as your healthy hair grows in. Until then, you’ll have to care for both textures simultaneously.
 
To manage scab hair, maintaining proper moisture and protein balance is essential. While deep conditioners and moisturizers won’t completely reverse the texture, they can help improve elasticity and reduce breakage. Look for products with natural emollients like shea butter, coconut oil, or aloe vera, which can provide much-needed hydration.
 
Gentle styling methods, such as low-manipulation styles (twists, braids, or buns), can help minimize stress on the hair. Some women choose to wear protective styles like wigs, weaves, or braids during the transition phase to protect their hair while allowing new growth to come in. However, be cautious with tight styles that could cause tension or further damage.
 
Ultimately, every person’s hair journey is different. Some may find that their scab hair phase is short-lived, while others may need more time and patience. The key is to be consistent with hair care, avoid harsh chemicals, and give your scalp the opportunity to recover fully. If you’re concerned about the condition of your hair, consulting a trichologist can provide personalized guidance.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
How to braid hair
 
Wigs and hairpieces
 
The special needs of African-American hair