Washing Hair Before a Perm

Towel drying long hair
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Q: I'm getting a perm tomorrow and I've heard conflicting advice about washing my hair beforehand. Should I skip washing to help the perm take better? I've had issues in the past where the hair underneath doesn't curl as well as the rest. I read on your website that stylists should leave the chemical on tougher hair sections longer, but I'm wondering if there's any benefit to having slightly dirty hair before the perm service. Will skipping my usual wash make any difference in how well the perm takes?
 
A: This is one of the most common misconceptions about perm preparation, and it's completely understandable why people think unwashed hair might work better. However, the opposite is actually true. You'll want to wash your hair thoroughly before your perm appointment, and here's why this makes such a significant difference in your results.
 
Hair salons always start perm services with a thorough cleansing process, typically using a clarifying shampoo that's specifically designed to strip away oils, styling products, and dirt. This deep cleansing step is absolutely crucial because the perm solution needs direct, unobstructed access to your hair shaft to work effectively. Think of it like trying to paint a wall that hasn't been properly cleaned first. The paint won't adhere properly if there's dirt or grease in the way.
 
When you skip washing before a perm, several things can interfere with the chemical process. Natural oils from your scalp, along with any styling products you've used over the past few days, create a barrier on your hair shaft. This barrier prevents the perm solution from penetrating evenly and completely into the hair cuticle, which is where the actual restructuring of your hair's bonds takes place. The result is often exactly what you've experienced before: uneven curl formation, with some sections taking beautifully while others remain stubbornly straight or only slightly wavy.
 
Your concern about the underneath sections not taking well is particularly relevant here. The hair at the nape of your neck and underneath layers often has different porosity levels and can be more resistant to chemical processing. When there's additional buildup from oils and products, these already-challenging areas become even more difficult to process effectively.
 
The myth about dirty hair taking perms better likely stems from older perm formulations that were much harsher and more damaging. Decades ago, some stylists believed that natural oils would provide protection against chemical damage. However, modern perm solutions are formulated to be gentler and more predictable, and they're designed to work on clean hair.
 
If you're concerned about protecting your hair's health and integrity during the perm process, there are much better strategies than skipping the pre-service wash. Consider giving yourself a deep conditioning treatment about three to four days before your appointment. This will help strengthen your hair and improve its overall condition without interfering with the perm solution's ability to penetrate the hair shaft.
 
Avoid using any leave-in conditioners, styling creams, or oils for at least 24 hours before your appointment. Even products that claim to wash out easily can leave trace amounts that interfere with the perm perm.
 
Successful perms depend on several factors working together: clean hair, proper sectioning, appropriate rod size selection, correct processing times for different areas, and proper neutralization. By starting with thoroughly clean hair, you're setting the foundation for all these other elements to work effectively.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
More about perms
 
What is the importance of removing product build up before starting the perming process?
 
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