Unrolling Boomerang Perm Rods

Boomerang perm rods
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Q: I'm using long perm rods (sometimes called boomerang perm rods or loop perm rods) and want to make sure I unroll them correctly. Is there a special technique to unroll them while maintaining the best possible curl formation?
 
A: When you've processed your perm correctly, the curls created by the permanent wave solution should be chemically set and stable. However, the technique you use to remove the rods can significantly impact the final appearance and longevity of your curls, so it's worth taking the time to do it right.
 
The most important thing is being gentle with freshly permed hair. Hair in its wet state is naturally more fragile and vulnerable to damage, and this is especially true when it's saturated with chemical processing solutions. The hair cuticles are swollen and the protein bonds are still settling into their new configuration, making careful handling absolutely essential.
 
Start your unwrapping process from the bottom section of your head and work systematically upward. This approach prevents you from accidentally pulling or tugging on the lower curls while you're working on the upper sections. It also allows gravity to work in your favor rather than against you.
 
When you're ready to remove each rod, begin by gently rotating the perm rod in place to loosen the hair coiled around it. This preliminary step helps release any tension without pulling directly on the curl. Once you feel the hair start to give way, slowly and carefully unwind the curl from the rod, following the spiral pattern that was created during the wrapping process. If you've loosened the hair sufficiently, you may find that you can simply slide the rod straight out from the center of the curl without any unwinding at all.
 
The timing of when you remove the rods depends entirely on the look you're trying to achieve. If you want tighter, more defined individual curls, remove the rods while the hair is still damp from the neutralizing process. The hair will be more pliable at this stage, making rod removal easier and less likely to disturb the curl pattern.
 
However, if you're aiming for a fuller, more voluminous style with softer, more blended curls, consider leaving the rods in place until the hair is completely dry. This technique, sometimes called "dry unwrapping," allows the curls to set more firmly in their wrapped position. Once you remove the rods from dry hair, you'll have tighter spiral curls that you can then gently separate and fluff to create volume and movement.
 
After removing all the rods, regardless of whether the hair is wet or dry, avoid the temptation to immediately brush or comb through the curls. Instead, use your fingers to gently separate any curls that may have stuck together, working from the ends toward the roots to minimize disruption of the curl pattern.
 
For finishing touches, a light application of styling products can help define and hold your new curls. If you removed the rods while the hair was still damp, try using a curl-enhancing cream or mousse applied with scrunching motions to encourage curl formation as the hair air-dries. For dry-unwrapped curls, a light misting of flexible-hold hairspray or styling spritz followed by gentle scrunching can help set the style and add shine while maintaining the curls' natural movement.
 
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See also:
 
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Should I roll perm rods upward or downward?
 
What way do perm rods go into your hair for a brick perm?