Hair Color Fading After a Perm

Q: I got my hair cut and permed today and noticed that my hair color has faded significantly or been stripped away during the process. When is it safe to recolor my hair, and why did this happen?

A: What you're experiencing is actually quite common and happens to many people who get perms after coloring their hair. The fading or removal of hair color during a perm is a predictable side effect that occurs due to the chemical interaction between the two processes.

Perm solutions contain strong alkaline chemicals, typically ammonium thioglycolate, which work by breaking down the protein bonds in your hair to reshape its structure. During this process, the neutralizer used to set the perm contains hydrogen peroxide, which acts as an oxidizing agent. This hydrogen peroxide doesn't just neutralize the perm solution It also has a lifting effect on artificial hair color pigments, causing them to fade, lighten, or wash out entirely.

This chemical reaction is particularly pronounced with semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair colors, which don't penetrate as deeply into the hair shaft as permanent colors. Even permanent hair color can be affected, especially if it's been applied recently or if your hair is porous.

Hairdressers are well aware of this interaction, which is why they typically recommend perming hair before coloring it, not the other way around. The ideal sequence is perm first, wait one to two weeks, then apply hair color. This timing allows the hair cuticle to settle and close after the perm process while giving the hair time to recover from the chemical stress.

Hair makeover from long and straight to short with permed curls — Image: AI illustration

In your current situation, patience is crucial. You should wait at least one full week, though two weeks would be even better, before attempting to recolor your hair. This waiting period serves several important purposes. First, it allows your hair cuticle to fully close and stabilize after the perm process. Second, it gives you time to assess the true condition of your hair and determine if any damage has occurred that might affect how well new color will take.

During this waiting period, focus on intensive conditioning treatments. Use a high-quality deep conditioning treatment at least twice during the week, paying particular attention to the mid-lengths and ends of your hair where damage is most likely to occur.

When you do decide to recolor, consider having it done professionally, especially if your hair shows any signs of damage. A professional can assess your hair's condition and choose the appropriate color formula and processing time.

If you're planning to color your hair at home, perform a strand test first. Choose a small section of hair and apply the color according to the package directions, checking it frequently. This will help you determine how your permed hair will react to the color.

©Hairfinder.com

See also:

Is it ok to perm colored hair?

How to make hair color last longer

Should I color my hair first or have it permed first?