Menopause & Perm Not Taking
A: To be honest, it is extremely difficult to try and diagnose a problem without direct access to the client in question, but I can provide as much general information as possible.
Hormonal Changes and Menopause
Menopause and perimenopause alter how hair behaves during chemical services. As estrogen and progesterone drop, higher relative levels of androgen hormones affect the hair follicles and scalp oil glands.Hair follicles can shrink and start producing strands that are finer, drier, or irregularly shaped. Because a perm relies on the hair's natural elasticity to form a new shape, weakened protein bonds struggle to hold that curl.
Decreased oil production can leave the hair's outer layer (the cuticle) raised, fragile, and overly porous. This lets the hair absorb the perm lotion too quickly, leading to over-processing or uneven processing.
Conversely, hormonal changes can cause the cuticle layer to flatten tightly, turning the hair coarse, non-porous, and resistant to perm solution. This prevents the perm lotion from penetrating.
Changes in Gray Hair Percentage
If your client recently developed more gray hair, standard perm formulas may no longer give you the same results. Gray hair often has a thicker, tightly compact cuticle layer that acts as a shield against chemical penetration.On top of that, gray hair often grows in drier, coarser, and flatter in shape. It often resists taking on the round shape of a perm rod unless processed with an alkaline formula formulated specifically for resistant hair.
Product and Mineral Buildup
Hard water minerals like calcium, magnesium, iron, and copper attach themselves to the hair shaft. Calcium creates a barrier that blocks the perm solution, while iron and copper can react aggressively with perming chemicals, causing heat spikes and uneven results.Heavy silicones, waxes from hair products, glossing treatments, or natural oils create a waterproof coating on the hair. If the perm lotion cannot penetrate through this layer evenly, the disulfide bonds inside the hair’s cortex will break only partially. This can result in a weak, limp wave or no curl at all.
Hair Fatigue from Over-Processing
Having two perms within just a couple of months creates a risk of hair fatigue. Perming works by breaking internal disulfide bonds with ammonium thioglycolate (or similar agents) and re-linking them in a new shape using hydrogen peroxide.When hair is permed repeatedly in a short period, the cortex loses its internal strength and elasticity. Without that elasticity, the hair cannot spring into a firm curl, no matter how long the perm lotion sits. Perming already-fatigued hair again often results in a fuzzy, limp wave rather than a beautiful, lasting curl.
Potential Next Steps
1. Perform a Clarifying or Chelating Treatment: Before attempting another chemical service, run a chelating or clarifying treatment to strip away any potential mineral or product buildup that might be blocking the hair shaft.2. Conduct Strand and Elasticity Tests: Always perform a strand test and elasticity check first to ensure the hair’s internal structure can handle chemical processing without breaking.
3. Switch to the Right Formula: If her hair has become more gray or resistant, consider switching to an alkaline perm formulated for resistant hair. If her hair has become porous or fragile due to hormonal changes, an acid-balanced perm with lower pH might be necessary to protect the hair structure while forming the curls.
4. Try Air Neutralizing: Air neutralizing is a handy technique many stylists use in perming. Once the perm lotion is thoroughly rinsed from the hair and the moisture is blotted from the rods, let the hair air dry on the rods for 20 to 30 minutes (or use a hooded dryer on a cool setting for 10 to 15 minutes) before applying the neutralizer.
Safety Warning for Air Neutralizing: Never allow the hair to dry completely on the rods. Perm rods can contract as moisture evaporates. If the hair dries fully while wrapped, it creates physical tension that can lead to hair breakage or chemical burns on the scalp. Keep the hair damp, test curl first, and proceed with processing as normal. I have used the air-neutralizing technique with great success on clients experiencing resistant, aging hair, but testing beforehand is always key to keeping the hair safe and healthy.
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See also:
Perms and perming hair
Menopausal changes in the hair
Changes in the hair texture and wave pattern after menopause