Lightened Hair Going Green

Brown hair coloring
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Q: I've been lightening my hair with store-bought products for years, primarily focusing on the roots. Recently, I tried to achieve a sun-kissed, natural-looking blonde all over my head without using bleach. The problem is, I'm tired of touching up my roots every six to eight weeks. My natural hair color is dark blonde, with gray coming in at the temples. When I was younger, my hair would naturally turn a beautiful reddish-blonde in the summer sun.
 
I've been using the lightest shade of neutral blonde with a violet base, but now my hair is turning green. How can I transition to a light or medium brown without ending up with ashy, green-tinted hair? I'd prefer to do this myself rather than visit a salon, as my previous salon experience left me with an unattractive mix of green-brown hair and greenish blonde highlights.
 
A: First, let me reassure you that the green tint you're experiencing is a common issue with lightened hair, especially for someone with your natural color history. Based on your description of how your hair used to turn reddish-blonde in the sun, your natural hair likely contains warm undertones with reddish pigments. The greenish cast you're seeing now is actually revealing something important about your hair's chemistry.
 
What's happening is a color theory issue. Your hair's natural golden (yellow) undertones are interacting with the blue components present in violet-based or neutral color products. When blue and yellow mix, they create green, exactly what you're trying to avoid! This reaction can be particularly pronounced in pre-lightened hair that has become porous from repeated coloring.
 
For someone transitioning from lightened hair to a brown shade, your best approach isn't just about choosing any brown color. You need to specifically counteract those green tones with the right color base. Since your hair naturally has warm tendencies (evidenced by how it used to turn reddish in the sun), working with those natural undertones rather than against them will give you more natural-looking results.
 
I recommend visiting a professional beauty supply store (not just a regular retail store) and selecting a hair color that's similar to your natural shade but with a red or red-orange base. Look specifically for terms like "warm," "golden brown," or "copper" on the packaging. These warm-based colors will help neutralize the green tints because red/copper tones are opposite green on the color wheel. You might even want to choose a shade slightly lighter than your natural color, as going too dark in one step can sometimes result in an unnatural appearance.
 
Since your hair has undergone frequent lightening processes, it's crucial to use a gentle developer. Ask for a 5 or 10 volume peroxide developer to create what's called a "deposit-only" color application. This lower-volume developer will minimize further damage while allowing the new color to adhere properly to your pre-lightened strands.
 
Before coloring, I strongly recommend a two-week preparation period to strengthen your hair. Use protein-rich deep conditioning treatments twice weekly to rebuild hair structure. On the day of coloring, apply a light conditioning treatment about an hour before the process, but make sure to thoroughly dry your hair before applying the color. Moisture can interfere with proper color absorption.
 
After coloring, wait at least 48 hours before shampooing to allow the color to fully set. When you do wash your hair, use lukewarm (never hot) water and sulfate-free color-protecting products to extend the life of your new shade.
 
If you're still seeing traces of green after this process, a color-correcting gloss with red/copper tones can be applied as a temporary solution between colorings. Many beauty supply stores carry these semi-permanent glosses specifically designed to counteract unwanted tones without causing further damage.
 
Achieving your ideal color might require a gradual transition rather than a single application, especially when dealing with previously lightened hair that has developed unwanted tones. Be patient with the process, and your hair will thank you with healthier, more natural-looking results.
 
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See also:
 
How to dye hair
 
Hair color levels and peroxide developer
 
The way hair responds to sun exposure
 
How can I tell the base color of a hair product?