Photo: Zerbor/ShutterstockQ: I'd like to know whether I should use a rinse-out conditioner or a leave-in conditioner since I color my hair and use a blow dryer plus a straightening iron sometimes. I'm also confused about hair colors. There are ammonia and ammonia-free types. Which one should I use? What does ammonia actually do in hair color? I have about 40-50% gray hair. Can I also get highlights on top of coloring my hair?
A: When you're using heat styling tools regularly like blow dryers and straightening irons, your hair needs all the protection it can get. The truth is, you shouldn't have to choose between rinse-out and leave-in conditioners. You should be using both. Start with a good rinse-out conditioner after every shampoo, then apply a leave-in conditioner before heat styling. This double layer of protection will help shield your hair from the damage that heat tools can cause, especially when combined with chemical processing from hair color.
Regarding ammonia in hair color, it serves two important functions. First, ammonia opens up the hair cuticle (the outer protective layer) so color molecules can actually penetrate into the hair shaft rather than just sitting on the surface. Second, it activates the peroxide in the developer, which is what helps the color molecules form and lock into your hair. Since ammonia is alkaline, it causes the hair to swell slightly and lifts those cuticle scales, creating pathways for the color to get in.
Ammonia-free formulas use alternative alkaline ingredients to do the same job, but they're often gentler and don't have that strong, distinctive smell that many people find unpleasant. However, they might not be as effective on resistant hair types.
With 40-50% gray coverage, you're dealing with hair that's naturally more resistant to color because gray hair has a different structure. It's coarser and the cuticle is tighter. This means ammonia-based formulas might actually work better for you since they're more effective at opening stubborn cuticles. That said, if you find the smell bothersome or your scalp is sensitive, you can certainly try ammonia-free options first. Your colorist can help determine which works best for your specific hair type.
As for highlighting on top of coloring, yes, you can do both, but you need to be strategic about it. Adding highlights to already color-treated hair means you're layering chemical processes, which can lead to dryness, breakage, or unpredictable color results if not done carefully. The key is spacing out your services, using deep conditioning treatments regularly, and working with an experienced colorist who can assess your hair's condition before proceeding. If your hair is already showing signs of damage or dryness, it's better to focus on getting it healthy first before adding more chemical services.
