Straighten a Perm with a Flat Iron

Woman who is using a flat iron on permed hair
Photo: Tinatin/Shutterstock
Q: I got a perm about a month ago. I like it ok, but sometimes I want to straighten it. Will using a flat iron on my hair affect the perm at all?
 
A: In short, no - provided you wait the necessary window after your service and use the proper precautions.
 

The Science Behind It

Perms cause a permanent change in the hair's wave pattern by breaking the stronger chemical (disulfide) bonds in the hair and reforming them around a rod. Flat irons and other heat styling appliances merely create a temporary physical change by breaking and reforming the weaker physical (hydrogen and salt) bonds, which are easily manipulated by water and heat.
 
Because you got your perm a month ago, the chemical bonds have completely stabilized. You can safely wash, condition, blow-dry, and flat iron your hair straight without worrying about ruining your perm. Your curls will bounce right back the next time your hair gets wet or is shampooed.
 
Note: Always wait at least 48 to 72 hours after getting a fresh perm before applying any heat tools or washing your hair, as the chemical bonds need this time to fully lock into place.
 

Crucial Precautions for Heat Styling Permed Hair

Because permed hair has undergone chemical processing, it is inherently more porous, drier, and highly vulnerable to heat damage. To keep your hair healthy and ensure your curls bounce back perfectly, follow these essential guidelines:
 
• Keep the Temperature Low: Chemically treated hair should never be exposed to high heat. Keep your flat iron set between 300°F and 350°F (150°C to 175°C). Anything higher can permanently degrade the hair's protein structure, frying your hair and ruining its ability to curl back up.
 
• Never Iron Damp Hair: Your hair must be 100% dry before flat ironing. Applying a hot iron to damp or wet hair traps moisture inside the hair shaft, causing it to instantly boil and vaporize. This creates a severe form of damage which destroys the hair structure and causes immediate breakage.
 
• Use Modern Heat Protectants: Avoid older hair lacquers or heavy holding sprays before ironing, as the high heat can literally bake these products into your hair cuticle. Instead, apply a modern, lightweight silicone-based thermal protectant (containing ingredients like dimethicone) to damp hair before blow-drying. This creates a protective barrier and seals in moisture.
 
• Go Easy on the Tension: Permed hair has lower tensile strength and is more prone to snapping. Use a high-quality flat iron with ceramic or tourmaline plates, and glide it gently down your hair without clamping down too hard or pulling tightly.
 
• Restore Moisture and Strength: Incorporate a deep conditioning treatment or a lightweight leave-in protein conditioner into your weekly routine to patch up the increased porosity caused by the perm.
 
By taking these precautions, keeping your hair deeply moisturized, and using a gentle touch, you can enjoy beautiful, sleek, straight hairstyles without sacrificing the bouncy curls you got the perm for.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
How perms work
 
Flat iron styling