Perms on Color-Treated Hair
I know there are new products on the market, and she thinks it should be alright since my hair looks healthy. I just don't want that straw-like look that screams over-processed. I know there is never a guarantee, but what is the accepted best practice?
Should I wait a certain amount of time after coloring before getting a perm, or vice versa? Are there certain types of perms that are safer for color-treated hair? I want to keep my hair looking healthy while adding some texture and body, not end up with damaged hair that has to be cut off.
Since your stylist has remarked that your hair is in good condition, you should be able to get a gentle perm that will give you the results you're looking for while minimizing unnecessary stress on the hair.
However, because you color your hair on a tight 4 to 5-week cycle, succeeding with a perm requires following a strict "order of operations" and specific timing guidelines:
1. The Golden Rule: Perm First, Color Second
You should almost always get your perm first and your color second. Perm solution is highly alkaline and acts as a mild color-stripper; if you color your hair and then perm it, the perm solution will fade, strip, or brassily alter your fresh hair color. Perming first and coloring later keeps your shade looking exactly as intended.2. The 2-Week Buffer Rule
You should never get both services done on the same day. You must wait at least 14 days after your perm before applying your hair color. This buffer period allows your hair's internal disulfide bonds to fully stabilize, its pH levels to normalize, and the cuticle to close before another chemical is introduced. Given your 4 to 5-week color cycle, you will need to time your perm exactly in the middle of a cycle.3. Choose an Acid Perm
Today's perm formulations are much gentler than those of the past. For color-treated hair, your stylist should use an acid perm (typically formulated with Glyceryl Monothioglycolate) rather than a traditional alkaline perm. Acid perms have a lower pH and are specifically designed to gently penetrate color-treated, porous hair without causing excessive swelling or damage.4. Opt for a Body Wave or Texture Perm
Since you are growing out a short, spiky cut, you likely want to avoid a traditional, tightly coiled perm. A body wave or a loose texture perm using larger rods will provide lift, movement, and styling versatility without creating tight curls.5. What Your Stylist Should Do
Before wrapping your hair, your stylist must assess:• Elasticity & Porosity: Ensuring the hair can stretch and return to its shape without breaking.
• Previous Chemical History: Verifying there are no heavily highlighted, bleached, or double-processed sections, as bleached hair is generally not a candidate for a perm.
• A Strand Test: A preliminary strand test on a small section of hair will show exactly how your hair will react to the perm chemical.
©Hairfinder.com
See also:
Pems and perming
24 hour perm for less damage to the hair
After-care for colored or chemically treated hair