Perming Gray Hair

Woman with gray hair
Photo: Stockfour/Shutterstock
Q: Can gray hair be permed safely? Are there any special products or procedures? I have been enjoying the healthy nature of my non-colored hair but am interested in adding a little body if I can do that without taking away the sheen.
 
A: The problems encountered when attempting to perm gray hair are typically related to the hair being more resistant to moisture and chemicals. As hair loses melanin, the cuticle layer often becomes tighter, making the hair less porous. This means it doesn't absorb liquids (or release them) as readily as pigmented hair, and perm chemicals may take longer to penetrate the hair shaft to break and rearrange the disulfide bonds that form the hair's wave pattern.
 
Because of this natural resistance, gray hair requires a customized approach. While some people think gray hair is fragile simply because of its color, that is rarely the case for untreated, "virgin" hair. Many people find that untreated gray hair is actually stronger and more resistant to chemical services than they expected.
 

Evaluating Hair Texture and Density

Gray hair can express itself differently on everyone. While a coarse and resistant texture is the most common, gray hair can sometimes grow in fine or delicate.
 
Because every head of hair is different, your stylist should evaluate not only the amount of gray hair you have, but also its exact texture (coarse vs. fine), density, and overall condition before selecting a perm formula.
 

The Importance of Strand and Curl Testing

You should plan to allow extra time for your stylist to perform both a strand test and a test curl on your hair:
 
• A strand test helps determine how your hair's cuticle responds to the chemicals and ensures the formula won't cause unexpected weakness.
 
• A test curl allows the stylist to check the exact amount of wave being created and pinpoint the precise processing time before proceeding with your entire head.
 
Taking these extra precautions greatly increases the chances of achieving a consistent, natural-looking result while protecting the structural integrity of your hair.
 

Choosing the Right Perm Formula

Selecting the correct perm solution is equally important:
 
• For coarse, resistant gray hair: An alkaline (thioglycolate) perm is typically used because it successfully swells the tight cuticle layer to allow penetration.
 
• For finer or more delicate gray hair: A milder acid-balanced or exothermic perm formula may be chosen to avoid over-processing.
 
Your stylist may also choose a formula designed specifically for resistant hair or carefully adjust the processing time rather than automatically using a harsh solution.
 

Preserving Sheen and Preventing Yellowing

If preserving your hair's natural shine is a top priority, let your stylist know during your consultation. Healthy gray hair can have a striking, silvery sheen, and a properly performed perm should not diminish that shine.
 
One minor detail to keep in mind is that the chemical process - specifically the neutralizer - can occasionally leave a faint yellow or brassy tint on bright white or silver hair. If this happens, using a gentle purple toning shampoo once a week easily counteracts warm tones and restores a bright, metallic gloss.
 

Post-Perm Care

Following up with a moisturizing post-perm treatment, a gentle sulfate-free shampoo, and a rich conditioner formulated for textured or chemically treated hair will keep your new curls soft, hydrated, and shiny.
 
So, in short, the answer is: Yes - you can safely perm gray hair. Simply go to a stylist you trust and discuss fully what you want from your perm. An experienced stylist can evaluate your hair, perform the appropriate tests, select the correct formula, and adjust processing time to suit your hair's unique characteristics.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
Perms Q&A
 
Perms and perming hair
 
Changes in our hair when we age