Perm Without the Smell

Smelly hair after a perm — Photo: Aaron Amat/Shutterstock

Q: I really want to get a perm, but I absolutely can't stand that horrible chemical smell that comes with it. Is there any way to get a perm without dealing with that overpowering odor?

A: You're definitely not alone in your concern about perm odors. That distinctive, sharp smell is one of the most common complaints people have about getting perms. The good news is that there are several effective ways to minimize or even eliminate much of that unpleasant chemical odor while still achieving the curly results you want.

The notorious smell that most people associate with perms comes primarily from ammonia, which is a key ingredient in traditional alkaline permanent wave solutions. This ammonia serves an important purpose by opening up the hair cuticles and allowing the perm chemicals to penetrate deeply into the hair shaft to break and reform the protein bonds that determine your hair's natural texture. However, ammonia's pungent, eye-watering odor can linger in your hair for days or even weeks after the perm process.

Your best option for avoiding this smell is to choose an acid perm instead of the traditional alkaline version. Acid perms represent a gentler alternative that uses glycerol monothioglycolate as the active ingredient rather than the ammonium thioglycolate found in conventional perms. This substitution makes a dramatic difference in odor. Acid perms produce little to no ammonia smell during or after the process. The trade-off is that acid perms work more slowly and gently than their alkaline counterparts, which means they typically require the application of heat through a hair dryer or heat lamp to activate the curling process effectively.

Because acid perms work differently, the entire procedure takes longer, often two to three hours compared to the hour and a half that traditional perms usually require. The results also tend to be somewhat looser and more natural-looking, which many people actually prefer. Acid perms are particularly well-suited for hair that's been previously colored, highlighted, or chemically treated, since they're much less likely to cause damage or breakage.

If you're planning to do an at-home perm using an acid formula, it's crucial to read through all the instructions thoroughly before you begin. The timing, application method, and neutralizing process can differ significantly from traditional perm kits, and following the wrong procedure could result in weak curls that fall out quickly or overly tight curls that look unnatural.

Another option worth considering is low-ammonia permanent wave formulations, which have become increasingly popular in recent years. These newer formulas retain the effectiveness and familiar timing of traditional alkaline perms while significantly reducing the ammonia content and its associated odor. While you may still notice some chemical smell during the process, it's typically much milder and dissipates faster than conventional perm solutions. Many hair salons now offer these low-ammonia options as their standard perm service.

When choosing a salon for your perm, don't hesitate to ask your stylist about their available options for odor reduction. Many experienced hairdressers are well-versed in techniques for minimizing perm odors and can recommend the best approach based on your hair type, desired curl pattern, and sensitivity to chemical smells.

If you do end up with some lingering perm smell despite your precautions, there are several effective ways to eliminate it. Specialized clarifying or anti-odor shampoos are designed specifically to neutralize chemical odors from perms, relaxers, and hair coloring processes. These shampoos work by breaking down the odor-causing molecules rather than simply masking them with fragrance. Look for products that mention odor elimination or chemical odor removal on the label.

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See also:

How to remove perm smell

Hair deodorizer to take the bad smell of a perm away

The difference between an acid perm and an alkaline perm

Is an acid perm or an alkaline perm more likely to smell burnt after processing?