Difference Between Perms

Permed African hair
Photo: Kiuikson/Shutterstock
Q: What's the difference between perms designed for African hair and those marketed to white consumers? I understand that one is typically used for straightening while the other creates curls, but could someone with Caucasian hair use a perm formulated for Black hair? What would happen if they did?
 
A: The fundamental chemistry behind all chemical hair treatments that alter texture is remarkably similar, regardless of which demographic they're marketed toward. Both chemical straighteners and traditional perming solutions rely on the same basic scientific principle: they use thiol compounds, particularly ammonium thioglycolate or similar chemicals, to break down the disulfide bonds that give hair its natural structure. Once these bonds are broken, the hair can be reshaped into a new pattern, whether that's straighter, curlier, or somewhere in between.
 
However, there's an important clarification to make. While it's true that many products marketed specifically for African hair are relaxers designed to straighten naturally curly or coily hair, not all of them are straighteners. The Black hair care market also includes traditional perming products designed to add curl or wave to hair that has already been chemically straightened or is naturally less curly. The key distinction isn't necessarily about the intended curl pattern, but rather about the specific formulation and strength of the chemical treatment.
 
The primary differences you'll find between products marketed for different hair types lie in the supporting ingredients rather than the active chemical agents. Perms and straighteners formulated for African hair typically contain higher concentrations of moisturizing agents, protective oils, and conditioning ingredients. This is because Black hair, particularly hair with tighter curl patterns, tends to be more porous and prone to dryness due to its structure. The natural oils from the scalp have difficulty traveling down the length of tightly coiled hair strands, making additional moisture crucial for maintaining hair health during chemical processing.
 
Could someone with Caucasian hair use a perm designed for Black hair? Technically, yes, and in most cases, the results would be quite similar to using a perm specifically marketed for their hair type. The fundamental chemical reaction would proceed in the same way, breaking and reforming the hair's bonds to create the desired texture change.
 
Women with curly African hair and curly Caucasian hair
Image: AI illustration
However, there could be some unintended consequences depending on the individual's hair condition and the specific product formulation. If the person's hair is relatively healthy, less porous, and doesn't require the intensive conditioning that these products provide, the extra oils and moisturizing agents could potentially make the hair appear greasy.
 
Over-conditioning can interfere with the perm's ability to properly set, potentially leading to looser curls that don't last as long. Conversely, the extra conditioning agents might actually be beneficial for someone with damaged, over-processed, or naturally dry hair, regardless of their ethnicity. Hair that has been bleached, colored frequently, or exposed to excessive heat styling might respond better to a more moisturizing formula.
 
From a safety standpoint, using a perm formulated for a different hair type generally doesn't pose any unique risks beyond those inherent in all chemical hair treatments. The active ingredients that actually change your hair's structure are essentially the same across different product lines. However, the success of the treatment and the health of your hair afterward can be significantly impacted by choosing the wrong formulation strength or processing time.
 
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See also:
 
More about perms
 
Hair straightening