Hair Breakage After Perming

Permed hair with breakage
Photo: Anna Tronova/Shutterstock
Q: I washed my hair 24 hours after getting a perm, and now my hair has started breaking badly. It feels really dry too, so I've been putting oil on it. What should I do to fix this?
 
A: What you're experiencing is unfortunately a common consequence of chemical damage from the perming process, and washing your hair so soon after the treatment likely accelerated the problem. Your hair was already in a compromised state from the perm, and introducing water and shampoo within 24 hours disrupted the chemical bonds that were still settling into their new formation.
 
The breakage you're seeing suggests that your hair was overstressed during the perming process. This could have happened for several reasons: the perm solution may have been too strong for your particular hair type, the processing time might have been too long, or the neutralization step wasn't performed correctly. Each of these factors can leave your hair severely weakened and prone to snapping.
 
Understanding what happens during a perm helps explain why your hair is now so fragile. The perming process fundamentally restructures your hair by breaking down the natural protein bonds that give hair its strength and shape, then reforming them in a new curved pattern. This chemical restructuring makes your hair more porous and vulnerable to damage from heat, chemicals, and even regular washing. Think of it like taking apart a strong rope and putting it back together. Even when done perfectly, the rebuilt rope won't be quite as strong as the original.
 
While your instinct to apply oil to combat the dryness makes sense, it's actually not the most effective solution for chemically damaged hair. Oils tend to sit on the hair's surface and can sometimes create a barrier that prevents moisture from penetrating the hair shaft where it's actually needed. What your hair desperately needs right now is deep, intensive moisture restoration from the inside out.
 
Instead of oils, focus on protein-free deep conditioning treatments that are specifically designed for damaged hair. Look for conditioners that contain ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or glycerin, which can actually penetrate the hair shaft and restore moisture balance. Avoid protein treatments for now, as over-damaged hair can become protein overloaded, making it even more brittle.
 
Apply a generous amount of deep conditioning treatment to your damp hair, working it through from mid-length to the ends with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Avoid the scalp area, as this can make your roots look greasy. Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap or plastic wrap to create a humid environment that helps the conditioner penetrate more effectively. For extra benefits, wrap a warm, damp towel around the plastic covering. You can warm the towel in the dryer for a few minutes or run it under hot water and wring it out.
 
Leave this treatment on for at least 20 to 30 minutes, though you can safely leave it on longer if your hair is severely damaged. Some people with very damaged hair benefit from leaving deep conditioners on for an hour or even overnight with a shower cap. When you're ready to rinse, use cool or lukewarm water rather than hot water, which can further strip moisture and cause the hair cuticles to swell and lift.
 
Short curly hair after a bad perm
Image: AI illustration
The way you dry your hair after this treatment is crucial. Instead of rubbing your hair with a towel, which can cause friction and more breakage, gently squeeze sections of your hair between folds of a clean, absorbent towel. You can also wrap your hair turban-style and let the towel absorb the excess water naturally. Once your hair is no longer dripping, apply a leave-in conditioner or detangling spray designed for damaged hair. Use a wide-tooth comb to gently work through any tangles, starting from the ends and working your way up to avoid pulling and breaking the hair. Never try to comb through wet, damaged hair without some kind of slip-providing product.
 
Avoid heat styling tools completely while your hair is recovering. This means no blow dryers, flat irons, curling irons, or hot rollers. The high temperatures can cause the already weakened protein structure in your hair to break down further. Instead, let your hair air dry whenever possible. If you absolutely must speed up the drying process, use the cool setting on your blow dryer and keep it moving constantly rather than focusing on one area.
 
You should also be extra gentle with your hair in general. Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase to reduce friction, or wrap your hair in a silk scarf before bed. Avoid tight hairstyles that put tension on the already weakened strands, and be patient with the recovery process.
 
Patience and consistency are key. Your hair can recover from this setback, but it's going to take time and dedication to a gentle, moisture-focused routine. Avoid any additional chemical treatmentsuntil your hair has fully recovered its strength and elasticity.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
Perms and perming hair
 
Hair horror stories
 
The different formulas for perms
 
How to recognize hair breakage