Loosening Curly Hair

Woman with frizzy curly hair
Photo: Sergey Zapotylok/Shutterstock
Q: I have really curly hair that I'd like to transform into more of a wavy texture. From what I've read online, a spiral perm seems to create those defined "banana curls" or what reminds me of Strawberry Shortcake doll hair (lol). Is this accurate, or could a perm actually help loosen my natural curls into waves?
 
A: This is a great question, and I completely understand your concern about ending up with those overly defined spiral curls instead of the relaxed waves you're hoping for.
 
When it comes to professionally loosening very curly hair into waves, the key factor is using the largest wrapping tool possible during the chemical process. The diameter of the tool directly impacts your final wave pattern. The larger the tool, the looser the resulting wave.
 
Many stylists who specialize in texture modification can perform what we call "Specialty Perms" that utilize non-traditional tools specifically designed for your desired outcome. Rather than standard perm rods that create tighter curls, these professionals might use oversized magnetic rollers (the kind typically used for wet roller sets) or even repurpose items like large orange juice canisters to create the gentlest possible wave pattern.
 
The chemical relaxing process, when combined with these larger wrapping tools, can effectively "reset" your natural curl pattern to a looser configuration. However, it's absolutely essential to work with a stylist who has specific experience in curl relaxation rather than curl creation, as these are different skillsets within the hair profession.
 
If you're looking for a non-chemical alternative, you might consider the braiding method. This involves washing and conditioning your hair, then creating large, loose braids while your hair is still damp. As your hair dries in these braids, it adopts a more relaxed wave pattern.
 
The drawback to this approach is that depending on your hair length and natural texture, it can sometimes create a slightly bushy or voluminous effect rather than the smooth waves you might be envisioning. This method also provides only temporary results that will revert after your next wash.
 
I'd strongly recommend scheduling consultations with several stylists who specialize in curly hair before committing to any chemical process. Bring photos of your desired result, and ask to see examples of similar transformations they've completed. A truly skilled curl specialist should be able to assess your current texture and recommend the most appropriate technique to achieve your goals without damaging your hair's health or creating an unwanted texture.
 
Healthy hair always looks best regardless of its texture, so prioritize treatments that maintain your hair's integrity while working toward your desired style.
 
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See also:
 
How to braid hair
 
Perms and perming hair