Anti-Perm

Woman with thick, wavy and curly hair
Photo: Sam DCruz/Shutterstock
Q: I have medium-thick, long hair that’s naturally wavy to curly. Recently, I came across a salon near me advertising an "anti-curl" treatment, so I called to ask for details. The stylist explained that it’s essentially an "anti-perm," but she also warned me about potential hair damage and then suggested a Brazilian Blowout instead, which isn’t really what I’m looking for.
 
I’m curious about two things. How damaging would an anti-perm actually be for my hair? How long would the results last before my natural texture starts coming back?
 
A: The term "anti-perm" is relatively new, but the process itself isn’t. It’s essentially a thio-based straightening treatment, which means it uses the same type of chemical solution found in traditional perms - just applied differently.
 
Instead of wrapping hair around rods to create curls, the stylist applies the perm solution and then carefully combs through your hair as it processes, gradually relaxing your natural wave or curl pattern. When done correctly, the results are permanent. However, your new growth will come in with its original texture, so over time, you’ll notice a difference between the straightened lengths and your natural roots.
 
As for damage, yes, there is some risk involved, just like with any chemical service. The perm solution temporarily breaks down the hair’s internal bonds (specifically the disulfide bonds) to reshape its structure, leaving it more fragile during the process. If over-processed or improperly handled, this can lead to dryness, breakage, or excessive porosity.
 
That said, if your hair is healthy beforehand, the treatment is done by an experienced stylist, and you follow up with proper aftercare (think deep conditioning and heat protection), an anti-perm isn’t necessarily more damaging than other chemical treatments like relaxers or keratin treatments.
 
How long it lasts depends on your hair’s growth cycle. Since only the new growth will revert, you’ll likely need touch-ups every few months to maintain a completely straight look. If you’re okay with some gradual texture returning, you can stretch the time between treatments.
 
My best advice? Consult with a trusted stylist - preferably one experienced in chemical straightening - before committing. If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option, consider visiting a cosmetology school, where students (under instructor supervision) can often perform the service at a lower cost. Either way, make sure you get a thorough evaluation of your hair’s condition first.
 
At the end of the day, any chemical service carries some risk. The key is being informed, choosing a skilled professional, and weighing whether the results are worth it for you.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
Hair straightening
 
How perms work
 
What is the difference between a traditional relaxer, Japanese and Brazilian straightening?