Sationary Guide

Previous Hairstyling Definitions

       Shag - The shag haircut refers to a haircut with a lot of layers. Although a shag
style can be of any length, they are typically shoulder-length at their longest and just
below the ears at their shortest. Originating in the late 60s and early 70s, they are still
popular today. The defining feature of a shag cut is layering achieved by elevating the
hair to a stationary guide for cutting. The shag hairstyle has experienced a revival in
popularity due to the cast of the American TV series, 'Friends'.

       Stationary Guide - A stationary guide is a point to which all the hair is directed
before cutting. A stationary guide is used in long layered haircuts like the shag. This
guide does not move during the haircut.

       Traveling Guide - A traveling guide is one that moves with the area being cut. With
a traveling guide, hair that has been previously cut is used to indicate the length of the
next area to be cut. Haircuts like the basic circle cut and the pixie cut use a traveling
guide. The result is layers with a uniform length.

       Wedge - The wedge hairstyle was made popular in the 1970s by figure skater
Dorothy Hamill. It has become a classic style with several variations over the intervening
years but is defined by the sharp, clean tapering of the lower layers of the hair toward
the nape of the neck. Typically, the style is worn with bangs and is at least mid-ear-
length on the sides, but can be longer or shorter and still be considered a wedge, as
long as the hair cleanly tapers in the 'wedge' shape at the bottom. It is similar in
appearance to the 'Purdey' style listed above.

       Weight Line - The weight line is the area of a haircut having the greatest length.
In a blunt or bob haircut the weight line is at the ends of the hair. In a layered haircut
the weight line is the point around the head where the longest hair falls. A heavy weight
line clearly shows where the hair was cut and can be blended away using texturing tools
if desired.

       Graduated Hair or Graduated Haircut - The graduated haircut is a variant of the
layered cut where the hair is cut into a specific angle or shape. The ends of the hair in
this type of cut appear to "stack" on top of one another, often adding bulk or weight to
the style in specific areas. Because of this, the graduated haircut is also known as a
'stacked haircut'. Often, bob-style haircuts are stacked to add interest and shape to
accentuate the shape of the head or compliment a specific facial feature, or to elongate
the neck.
       This haircut works well with many hair types: coarse curly hair can be cut in a
graduated style allowing the natural curl to build volume in certain areas, while fine hair
can be cut in graduated styles that create smooth curving lines to frame the head and
facial features. Normal hair textures can of course support the graduated haircut in any
number of designs.
       The wedge haircut is an example of a graduated hairstyle.

       Gamine Haircut - The term 'gamine' means 'mischeivous and playful', and has
come to be used to denote the boyishly short and sassy hairstyles worn by many
women. Among the women who are famous for their gamine styles are Halle Berry and
Sharon Stone. Though not specific as to length, the gamine cut is invariably short
(above the ears). It should be noted that 'gamine' doesn't indicate one specific haircut,
but rather the general 'look' created by any of a number of different short-short
hairstyles. The 'pixie cut' is a gamine hairstyle, and so are the shorter versions of the
'purdey' styles.
       Gamine haircuts are best suited to slimmer women, with softer facial features. The
style can often make those women with thin angular faces and features appear gaunt
and disproportioned. It is sometimes suited to women with fuller figures and rounder
faces for its ability to give the illusion of length to the face, but should be considered
carefully before being chosen as the style requires a certain amount of attitude in the
women who wear it.

Hairstyle & Hairstyling Terms & Definitions