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Haircolor Application Demonstration

How to Apply Hair Color

We've had discussions about haircolor and talked about the rules for choosing the right color for you. We've even talked briefly about the risk of taking your hair to levels that are too light. But the best way for me to show you the results of improper color selection is to demonstrate the application of a haircolor on manikins with two very different color levels.
 
Step One:
 
    We begin with two manikins: a blonde manikin whose hair is at level 8 (light blonde) and a brunette manikin with hair at level 3. Both manikins were shampooed, and because the blonde has had her hair lightened previously we gave her a deep conditioning treatment prior to the application of the haircolor, to prevent any damage from the color process. Afterward, both manikins were blown dry and ready to color.
 
    We used the same haircolor on each manikin. The only difference in the color mixture was the developer we added. For the blonde, we used 20 volume peroxide, and with the brunette we mixed the color with 30 volume peroxide for added lift. The color used was Clairol 72R (Sunberry - light strawberry blonde) a level 9 color with a red-orange base color, because both our brunette and our blonde manikins had hair color with a red-orange contributing pigment. Therefore, there was no chance of unfortunate color results.
 
Blonde manikin before we apply hair color Hair coloring process for a blonde manikin Blonde manikin after applying haircolor
(click to enlarge)
 
Step Two:
 
    We start the color processes with the blonde manikin first. In order to make the color change most visible, we did an all-over color. Now, when you are coloring hair that is medium length or longer, you want to apply the color to the middle of the hair shaft first, about 1 inch away from the scalp and stopping two to three inches from the ends of the hair, starting in the front on one side, then the other and work your way back to the nape of the neck. Then you return to the starting point and apply the color to the scalp area. Once the scalp color is applied, then you pull the color through to the ends of the hair. The reason for this is that the hair at the scalp will process faster because of the heat of the scalp, and the hair on the ends is more porous and will also process faster, therefore, to assure even color, you want to begin coloring with the middle lengths of hair.
 
    However, because the manikin's hair is so short, we began by applying the color to the scalp first, and continued to add color until it was worked through to the ends of the hair. After the color was on, we took a wide-toothed comb and combed the color through the hair to distribute it evenly. Once evenly distributed, all that was left was to wait for the color to develop.
 
    It's important to work quickly when applying haircolor, because once you mix the color with a developer, you have about 30 minutes before the color mixture becomes inert and will no longer color the hair. The longer the haircolor is able to sit on the hair and process, the better color results you will get.
 
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