Next we applied color to the brunette manikin, but instead of doing all-over color, we
wanted to use the Sunberry as a highlight color. We mixed our haircolor with 30 volume
peroxide for extra lift. Using a freehand technique called balayage we brushed swaths
of color in various areas of the hair (as shown by the photos) and allowed them to
process. The idea was that the highlights would show up better against the starting brunette color.
After allowing the haircolor to completely process, we rinsed the haircolor from the
hair, by first rewetting the manikins' hair and massaging the hair to a lather then
rinsing the color and following up with a good conditioning shampoo. Both manikins were then blown dry and styled as shown.
As you can see, our blonde manikin's color turned out perfectly. We took her from a
level 8 with a pale honey color, to the level 9 strawberry blonde without damaging the
hair. The color is rich and even, with natural highs and lows giving the overall effect depth.
Our brunette manikin, however, shows no change from the original color except for a
little more red in the color tone. This was expected. As we stated at the beginning, our
brunette manikin was a level 3, and we used a 30 volume developer which only offers a
maximum lift of around three shades. Basically, we added as much color to the hair as
we would have dispersed with our peroxide, and the result is hair that shows no appreciable difference in color.
We did this on purpose, to show you that haircolor is often difficult to work with
unless you pay close attention to the levels of color you start with and add to the hair.
If our intention had been to really give our brunette manikin the strawberry blonde
highlights, we would have needed to use a bleaching agent first, in order to lighten the
highlights to a level around 8 or 9, then we could have used our Sunberry color and
gotten the effect we were telling you to expect.
So, now you see both the results of a good color selection, and what can happen
when you don't pay attention to the color level. Training and experience are what allow
your stylist to know what will work best for you, but knowing what to expect will help
you communicate better with your stylist to get the results you want.