Advanced Haircolor Techniques (2)Previous Page
Wavy hair – depending on the level of wave – can be shiny like straight hair tends to be, or may need enhancement in order to make the hair as glossy as we may want. For this reason, wavy hair types often respond well to translucent color formulas combined with shine enhancers. These shine enhancers are often referred to as “clear-gloss” or “cellophane” treatments.
Because the waviness of the hair creates natural points along the hair shaft which more readily reflect light, using a color toner or translucent color formula with shine enhancers is a great way to add depth to wavy hair, embolden the color and increase the shininess and healthy look of the hair.
Highlighting – Foils
Foil highlighting (as well paper highlighting) on wavy hair isn’t that terribly different than with straight hair. The techniques are the same, but you want to make sure to gauge the thickness of the weaves you take for coloring or lightening to be in balance with the wave of the hair. If you use weaves that are too thin, the results get lost in the waves. However, when the weaves are too thick, the results are streaky color that just looks outdated.
Highlights – Balayage
Again, with balayage highlighting applications, wavy hair needs to be considered carefully. You must gauge how thick you want the painted lines of color to be to keep them in balance with the overall look of the hair. If the lines are too thin, the resulting highlights will get lost in the bends and turns of the wavy hair. If the lines are too thick, you get a streaked result that isn’t flattering and looks like a retro-style.
Remembering that the goal of balayage is to create lightness where you would normally find natural highlighting, be sure to focus your efforts on creating brightness in the tops and foreground of the hair, and keep your lines in the length thick enough to allow the waves to reflect the light to maximum effect.
Curly hair often appears less shiny and healthy, because the twists and turns of the hair strands as they curl only reflect light from the arcs that bend toward the light. Because of this, you want to be sure to avoid using opaque colors on curly hair, which would result in a flatter color result and minimize the shine that exists in the hair. Translucent color formulas and tinted gloss are ideal for making curly hair more vibrant and enhancing the shiny and healthy-look of the hair.
Of course, it is also important to make sure that you process curly hair carefully. Because of the way the hair grows, there are often “weaker spots” along the length of the hair shaft. When hair color is improperly formulated or over-processed (with regard to lightening formulas) these points on the hair can become fragile and can be places more prone to breakage. Prior to coloring curly hair, it is often a good idea to apply protein treatments or deep conditioning packs.