The reason this happens is that fine hair (hair with a small diameter) cannot support as much weight as coarser hair, and therefore is more susceptible to the weight granted by
the length of the hair. You can sometimes bolster fine hair by using a bodifying shampoo and conditioner or a styling product that creates lift and volume at the scalp, but – once again – it is always best to use styling
products to enhance a look rather than to create one.
When cutting a fringe (bangs) into fine hair, you want to once again remove the hair in smaller increments. Start with a length approximately an inch to one-and-one-half inches longer than
you want for your final result, and see how the hair responds. As you remove the hair in small amounts, you will hopefully find that it begins to spring up and have some additional body. If this doesn’t happen, stop your
cuts at the point where you want the fringe to ultimately fall.
At this point, the goal is to remove weight without removing an excessive amount of length. To do this, use a texturing method such as point cutting where you cut vertically into
the cutting line of the fringe to make the ends of the hair appear wispy. By removing length in some of the hairs, you can hopefully generate some lift that will enable the shorter hairs to raise the longer hairs and
give the body and bounce you seek.
Fringe Styles and Problem Hair Traits
Often and individual will have hair traits (called growth patterns) that can make the creation of fringe styles problematic. The most common of these are cowlicks and hair
streams. Everyone is likely familiar with the look of what we know as a cowlick (named such because the old wives tale accompanying the trait was that a cow licked a given child’s head during his sleep, and that the
cow’s saliva – known to be very thick and sticky – permanently altered the way the hair grows). Hair streams may be less known because they aren’t always as readily visible in those who have them because they can appear
within the body of the hair away from the forward areas around the face. Even so, those that are present near the forehead can present unique difficulties in generating a style that incorporates a fringe – and indeed any
hairstyle at all in many cases.
Dealing with cowlicks and hair streams follow the same principles. You must either be able to create a look that overcomes the growth patterns, or you have to find a way to
use them to esthetic advantage. This second option is quite often the better choice and the easier of the two to achieve.
For cowlicks, you can create a divided fringe with an angled cutting line that creates a pleasing, asymmetrical look in the fringe style. If the individual has wavy hair, often
the fringe will create an “S” curl around the side of the cowlick and become a trait in the style that others want to emulate, but will be unable to since it requires the naturally-occurring growth pattern.
With hair streams, you may find that the hair suddenly seems determined to grow in one direction or the other at the forward edge of the face. This means that you must either have
the hair long enough to overcome the natural path or simply decide to use a side-swept fringe, which will more naturally direct itself as a result of the hair’s normal tendency.
If the hair stream seems to be intent to direct the hair straight forward along the top of the head, then you most likely need to use enough length in your fringe to allow the hair
to fall and hang in a way that you or your client finds pleasing.