The Grand
Step by step guide on how to cut a long haircut called "The Grand", from Lee Stafford, myhairdressers.com
"This long style is a haircut that I went in to the Guinness Book of Records with, for the dearest haircut in the world! I use this one in my salon more than any other. It's the kind of haircut that your client's smile just gets bigger and bigger and it never fails to impress." This is "The Grand".
Before: Lucy before the cut.
Step 1: Take a triangle section out at the front hairline and leave it out.
Step 2: Find the high point of the head, then section into two halves, then four quarters, so you have a hot cross bun.
Step 3: Then leave out two pieces of hair. Plait out of the way so as not to cut this hair. From the top of the ear, to the occipital bone, to the top of the ear.
Step 4: Begin with the left out triangle in the fringe. Comb down the section and cut a square line with the points of the blades thus creating the guide for the entire haircut.
Step 5: Next work on the front right hand side quarter. Take a vertical section from the high point of the head to the front hairline.
Step 6: Elevate and slightly over direct the back of the section forwards and cut a line from short to long, using the first section as a guide. This establishes a curved layered internal shape.
Step 7: Continue this process with parallel sections throughout this quarter, paying attention to the slight over direction producing a gentle concave internal shape. Notice Lee is constantly checking his over direction as this is key to his cut.
Step 8: Please notice the soft angle of the external line is getting longer, which later is refined.
Step 9: The last section in this quarter is over directed to the top to maintain length on the perimeter. Then cross check.
Step 10: Then repeat this process on the second side.
Step 11: Notice to check the geometry of the angle is the same on both sides. Through constant checking and positioning, the result will be accurate.
Step 12: Next check the shape visually, paying attention to growth patterns.
Step 13: Now take a vertical section from the first quarter as a guide for the back quarter.
Step 14: Next take a vertical section from the centre back, use the guide, elevate the hair straight out and cut a curved line parallel to the head shape.
Step 15: Continue down the section, repeating the same process and continuing the line.
Step 16: Again, notice how Lee continually checks his work visually.
Step 17: Now continue with this process all the way to the back of the ear, using parallel sections with even over direction and elevation, following the guide.
Step 18: Divide the section for ease and accuracy.
Step 19: Then repeat this process on the second side, using the previous centre section as a guide.
Step 20: Check the entire shape visually.
Step 21: Take out the plaited areas which would differ according to quality and density of hair.
Step 22: Using a slicing technique, work through the fringe section on a side parting to create a sweeping edge that runs from the left hand side across. This will achieve a cute angle, allowing the shape to push to one side.
Step 23: Repeat this angle on the low side of the parting. Please note to pay special attention to working visually on this weaker side.
Step 24: Now refine internally with a pointing technique to loosen and soften any corners throughout the perimeter.
Finish: The record breaking Grand is left to dry naturally so the haircut does all the talking. Your clients will be flocking back into the salon.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
See also:
How to cut long hairstyle with graduation and pivoting sections
How to cut hair with the long graduation technique
The Channel technique to cut long curly hair
