Q: When wrapping a spiral perm should the rod be turned so that it is fastened on the top or fastened at the bottom?
A: Generally speaking, it really depends on the tool being used. With the more traditional soft bend and circle tools, the hair is
usually wound in such a way around the tool that the tool is fastened with the join toward the side or the bottom. With newer spiral
wrap tool designs – such as the channeled perm rod, the hair may be wound in such a manner that the tool is fastened at the top or the
bottom, depending on personal choice.
The important factors in wrapping the hair is that the hair be kept clear of the fastening
mechanism to prevent snags and damage to the hair, and that the hair be kept neat and orderly in the wrapped state. If these two
conditions are met, the method to achieving them can vary wildly depending on the shape and size of the base sections and slices
being wrapped – not to mention the desired finished look.
According to MiLady’s Standard: Cosmetology textbook (Delmar Learning, Thompson Learning, Inc.,
Thompson Publishing), “The spiral wrapping technique can be used with a variety of base sections, base directions, and wrapping
patterns. Base sections may be either horizontal or vertical and do not affect he finished curl. Conventional rods, bendable soft
foam rods, and the circle tool can all be used for this technique, depending on the length of the hair.”
Your best option is to practice with the tools you have available (or the tools you intend to use
most with clients and in whatever other settings you will use them in) and determine what method of wrapping and securing the tools is
most comfortable for you and your client. The more at ease you are with the method you use, the faster and more precise your wrapping
will be, and the better your perms will look as a result.