I recently spent an evening with Austin, a young client of mine, and ended up discussing his hair
and his desire for a new look. As a young man (heís nearly 20) he likes to wear his hair short, but wants some ďstyleĒ in his look.
For some time, heís been opting for the faux hawk style, with the strip of extra length along the center of the top section, but
has grown somewhat bored with the look and wanted a change.
Given that he tends to have a short face with wide, expressive eyes and a broad mouth, he needs
a style that will offer some balance and prevent his face from appearing too wide. Heís recently been losing weight which has hardened
some of the angles of his face as well, taking it from a rounder look to square. Austinís hair is in excellent condition, but is baby fine
and only moderate in density, which means that it tends to appear sparse with a very short cut.
The goal here, then, was to give him a slightly different look that he could be happy with,
and which would help his hair look fuller while balancing and complimenting his features. The before pictures show Austin with his
hair un-styled and about 6 weeks after his last haircut. As you can tell from the ragged edges of the hairline, he needed a clean-up cut at the very least.
Cutting The Hair:
So, I took out my trusty clippers and shears and we set to work. To start, I used the clippers
with a Number 2 guard to cut the sides and back to the crown and parietal ridge. Following the contours of the head, I allowed the
natural weight line to be apparent. Once the lower sections were cut, I used the clippers, sans guard, to edge the perimeter and
around the ears, giving the style a clean defined outline on the lower hairline.
Next, I misted the hair in the top and crown sections with a leave-in conditioner and used my
comb and scissors to blend the weight line created by the clipper cut. I layered the crown section with a uniform layering technique
and plotted the alignment of my new weighted area for the new look. Standing behind the head, I used the right eye as my guide and
slowly worked from front to back layering the side of the top section to create a pointed shape running back along the scalp behind the right eye.
The hair to the left of this peak was layered using a steeper angle, blending the lengths from
the left side all along to the peak on the right. I cross-checked the layering for evenness and made adjustments as needed using a
scissors-over-comb method, since the hair is now so short.
Styling The Hair:
The styling was accomplished using a blend of wax-based mousse and styling gel, and was slowly
worked using the fingers until the hair began to dry and therefore gain a little more texture. The texturing effect of the product
combined with the side-swept styling, helps to make the hair look fuller and thicker.
Afterward, we have discussed possibly using haircolor to lighten Austinís color slightly and
make his hair look thicker by decreasing the difference between the color of his hair and his scalp.