Basic Concave Layer

How to cut a basic concave layer haircut
 
Step by step guide on how to cut hair with the basic concave layer technique, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
 
This technique will help you with your body positioning when cutting and understanding layering. It's also great for textured hair. Master this shape and you will reap the benefits!
 
Concave layer - before the haircut
 
Before: Monica before the cut and colour.
 
Concave layer haircut - How to begin the cut
 
Step 1: Begin the haircut on the right hand side. Take a diagonal section from the recession to just in front of the ear. Use even tension, over-direction and pull the hair forwards and up, angling your fingers towards the hairline, and cut a line from short to long. Notice that Stacey chooses to stand on the left of the model whilst executing his right hand side.
 
Concave layer haircut - How to cut for correct balance
 
Step 2: Repeat this process on the second side, again standing on the opposite side. Working these two small sections first ensures correct balance from the outset.
 
Concave layer haircut - Check the balance of the cut
 
Step 3: Check the balance technically and visually.
 
Concave layer haircut - Cut with over-direction and elevation
 
Step 4: Return to your initial side and cut the next section, using the previous section as a guide. Again, use over-direction and elevation and pay attention to the angle of your fingers.
 
Concave layer haircut - Cut the second section
 
Step 5: Then cut the second section on the other side.
 
Concave layer haircut - Cut alternating sections
 
Step 6: Continue with this alternating pattern until you reach the back. Working with alternating sections ensures accuracy of technique. Please note as Stacey works behind the ear, the section lengthens to include the back hairline.
 
Concave layer haircut - Sections are curved into the nape area
 
Step 7: Please note that the sections from the front through the side are diagonal and curved into the nape area. These sections will become more vertical as you work into the back.
 
Concave layer haircut - Cut with an angle reflective of the head shape
 
Step 8: Please note that as you move around the head, your angle is reflective of head shape. Notice how Stacey also decides to divide his longer sections for ease and accuracy.
 
Concave layer haircut - Check and refine balance
 
Step 9: Remember to constantly check and refine the balance.
 
Concave layer haircut - Cross check the cut
 
Step 10: Just before the final section in the back, you should crosscheck your work.
 
Continue ...
 
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