Color-treated Hair and Straightening

Unruly and curly color treated hair
Photo: Mimagephotography/Shutterstock
Q: I have pretty curly and unruly hair that takes forever to manage each morning. I'm seriously considering getting it chemically straightened since I just don't have time to wrestle with a flat iron every day before work. The thing is, I also love highlighting my hair. I get those gorgeous light brown highlights that really pop against my naturally dark hair. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this combination: can healthy, color-treated hair actually survive chemical straightening? I'd really hate to have to choose between straight hair and my highlights, but I'd hate even more to completely fry my hair and end up with a disaster on my head!
 
A: Healthy, color-treated hair can handle chemical straightening, but you're absolutely right to be cautious about it. The key word here is "healthy". Your hair needs to be in genuinely good condition before you even think about adding another chemical process to the mix.
 
Since you've been highlighting your hair, those strands have already been through the chemical wringer once. Highlights involve bleaching, which opens up the hair cuticle and can make your hair more porous and fragile. When you add a straightening treatment on top of that, you're asking your hair to handle two major chemical processes, which can be a lot.
 
Before you make any decisions, you really need to take an honest look at your hair's current condition. Run your fingers through it. Does it feel soft and elastic, or does it feel dry, brittle, or rough? When you stretch a strand gently, does it bounce back, or does it break easily? If your highlighted sections feel significantly different from your natural hair, or if you've noticed increased breakage since your last color treatment, your hair might not be ready for straightening just yet.
 
The timing between your color treatments and straightening is also crucial. Most hair professionals recommend waiting at least two weeks after any color service before attempting chemical straightening. This gives your hair time to recover and allows the cuticle to close back down somewhat. If you just got highlights last week, you'll want to hold off on the straightening for a bit.
 
A strand test is absolutely non-negotiable in your situation. This isn't just a good idea - it's essential when you're dealing with previously processed hair. Choose a small, hidden section from the underneath layer of your hair, preferably an area that includes both your natural color and highlighted sections. Follow the straightening product's instructions exactly on this test strand and see how it responds.
 
When you do choose a straightening system, look for one that's specifically formulated for color-treated or damaged hair. These tend to be gentler and often include conditioning agents that help protect your hair during the process. Avoid anything that claims to be "super strength" or promises dramatic results in minimal time. These are usually harsher formulations that could spell disaster for already-processed hair.
 
Pay careful attention to the product instructions and warnings. Some straightening systems specifically advise against use on bleached or highlighted hair, while others are formulated to work with color-treated hair.
 
If your hair is shoulder-length or longer, definitely recruit a friend to help you. Chemical straightening requires even application and precise timing, and it's nearly impossible to do this properly on long hair by yourself. You'll need someone to help you section your hair properly and ensure you don't miss any spots or leave the product on too long.
 
If you're feeling uncertain about doing this yourself, it might be worth consulting with a professional colorist or stylist who has experience with both color treatments and chemical straightening. They can assess your hair's condition more objectively than you might be able to and recommend the best approach for your specific situation. While it's more expensive than a drugstore kit, professional application reduces the risk of damage.
 
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See also: Once the hair is straightened, how do you take care of it?