Grow a Longer Beard

Man with a long beard
Photo: Ariantolog/Shutterstock
Q: I would like to grow a longer beard, but when my beard reaches a certain length it starts growing in different directions, causing it to look strange. I've tried pomade and even tried to straight perm it once, which just made it worse. Can you give me any advice?
 
A: Facial hair is quite different from the hair on your head; it is typically much coarser, has a unique curl or wave pattern, and is naturally prone to dryness. To top it off, most men find that their facial hair grows in completely different directions depending on the area of the face and neck.
 
Chemical treatments like straight perms or relaxers are highly destructive to coarse facial hair. They strip away the hair's natural lipids, leaving it fried, dry, and even more unruly. Instead of chemical interventions, here is how you can work with your natural growth patterns to achieve a longer, healthier beard:
 
• Push Through the "Awkward Phase": Most men attempting to grow a long beard hit a point where the hair becomes wild and unruly. Often, the best remedy is simply patience. As your beard gains more length, the physical weight of the hair will naturally pull it downward, helping it lie flatter and making it far easier to manage than it was just a few weeks prior.
 
• Use the Right Styling Products: Standard hair pomades often lack the hold needed for coarse facial hair. Instead, try a high-quality beard balm, which combines conditioning shea butter or oils with beeswax for a light-to-medium hold. For particularly stubborn areas, a stronger mustache wax can be used to lock wild hairs into place. For the best results, apply these products to a slightly damp beard immediately after washing to seal in moisture.
 
• Condition and Hydrate Daily: Dry hair is stiff and sticks outward. Keep your beard cooperative by washing it with a gentle, sulfate-free beard wash (never regular hair shampoo, which strips natural oils) and following up with a daily application of beard oil. Properly moisturized facial hair is significantly softer and much easier to direct.
 
• Train the Hair with a Boar Bristle Brush: Daily grooming with a firm, natural boar bristle brush is essential. While it won't permanently change your DNA, the stiff bristles help physically train the hair to lie in your preferred direction over time, while simultaneously distributing your skin's natural oils down the hair shaft to soften it.
 
• Ditch the Thinning Shears for Freehand Trimming: While some suggest using thinning shears to remove bulk, this can backfire on coarse or curly beards. Cutting random hairs short within a curl pattern can create tiny, stiff "springs" that actually push the longer hairs outward, making your beard look frizzier and patchier. Instead, visit an experienced barber who can freehand trim with straight shears or clippers to selectively sculpt bulky areas and remove weight without sacrificing your overall length.
 
Every beard has its own unique growth pattern. Rather than fighting your beard's natural tendencies, the key to a great-looking beard is keeping it healthy, using the right styling aids, and working with its natural flow.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
How do you trim a beard?
 
Can you tell me how to tame a bushy beard?
 
Beards and the shape of your face
 
Basic styles for moustaches and beards