The state of African-ethnic hair also tends to make it respond better to traditional styling methods. Roller sets, curling irons, etc., all seem to work better with African-ethnic
hair. Of course, this is my opinion. I like the crispness of the curls that can be created in African-ethnic hair with a hot curling iron. And I love the satiny-sheen to the finished hair.
Processed Hair versus Natural
I recently sat down and watched Chris Rock’s documentary “Good Hair” on the Beauty Industry and how it relates to African-Ethnic hair: specifically the fact that the practice of
processing, straightening, and outright replacing natural African-ethnic hair is a multi-billion-dollar industry. It is an industry which only includes a nominal percentage of Black-owned businesses.
The processing of African-ethnic hair refers to “relaxers” and “perms” which are meant to loosen the wave pattern of the hair and either reform it into larger, softer curls (such
as with the Jheri Curl) or to simply relax the tight wave patterns so that the hair appears smoother and straighter (relaxers). These chemical processes would often be combined with heated combs and irons to further
manipulate the final appearance of the hair.
The replacement factor of the industry comes in the form of wigs, hairpieces and weaves made from hair harvested from women of other countries (and other ethnicities – usually
east Indian where the hair color is a better match but the texture and wave patterns are more in line with what is desired). Depending on the source and quality of the hair used, the prices vary greatly. You may
find wefts of hair for use in waves and extensions made from yak hair (or other long-haired animals), and you can also find full-cap hair weave-in systems made of carefully harvested human hair that can cost
thousands of dollars and which are custom-made for the clients in question.
The industry was born from the fact that at some point in history, black women (especially) became convinced that their natural hair was undesirable and should be more like the
hair of Caucasians (smoother and straighter). Perhaps it was because there were some black women whose hair was smoother and straighter, and they were seen as more desirable, or were favored in other ways, but the
end result was a near-universal quest to get “good hair”.
Unfortunately, the desire for a specific type of hair also carried the stigma of branding the hair that African-ethnic women were born with as “bad hair”. There is a movement in
today’s society to fight that perception, but the fact is that billions of dollars are still spent each year on products to either alter or replace the natural hair that African-ethnic women are born with.
As a Non-Black individual, I don’t have the same frame of reference or experiences as someone of African-ethnic descent when it comes to hair. So, it’s easy for me to say that you should be happy with what you were
born. Yet, the desire to have some other hair trait isn’t solely the purview of those of African-ethnic descent. Caucasians spend their money on perms to add curl, straighteners to remove curl, and chemicals to
alter the color of the hair to any of hundreds of shades and hues.
I would also be a hypocrite to advocate against altering the hair when that is how I make my livelihood. What I can do is put in some time and effort to help people understand
what can be done, how the processes work, the pros and cons and let them make informed decisions on what SHOULD be done with their hair.