How To: Long Graduated Cut (2)Previous Page
3. Cut your forward sections first to allow you to re-secure the hair out of the client’s face once you are done. Use a 45-degree elevation at the fringe and forward top section, increase the elevation to 90-degrees as you move back along the head.
4. Move to the back section next and cut your perimeter length as desired. Work from the back center to the left and right and cut the perimeter as desired for the style. Cross-check your side cuts as you go to ensure balance and evenness in the cut. Be sure to raise the hair to the over-directed angle to ensure the proper layering depth.
5. Lower the sectioned hair one-half section at a time and cut it using the over-directed elevation and vertical cutting line. Work from center back to each side alternating between slices to make sure to keep the cutting balanced. As you finish a half-section, lower more hair and repeat the process.
6. Alternately, you can lower the hair from the top down and cut the hair in the opposing direction. Keep the over-directed elevation, but simply cut from the top of the head and work your way down to the nape. Carefully blend out and clean up the perimeter edge of the cut once you’ve completed it.
7. Once you’ve cut all of the sections of the hair, cross-check the layering by combing slices in the opposite direction in which the hair was cut. Look for pointy angles and protrusions that indicate hairs that were missed as the sections were sliced and cut. Trim these away to blend with the rest of the layers.
When the hair is cut, style it as desired. Depending on the particular lengths of such cuts the hair can blow-dry styled and/or curled using a wet set or heated tools. The long graduated cut works especially well with large, rolling curls of hair. However, even smaller curls can make an interesting style in the longer hair.
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