Apply a primer coat around the eye using a concealer or foundation only slightly lighter than that used on the rest of the face. The goal here is to flatten out the normal contours of the eye socket so that
we can create a new shape in a slightly altered location. When applying the primer coat along the lower lid, go ahead and cover the lower lashes. We will be making them less visible as we go along.
Take a deep brown powder shadow and a thin brush and fill in the brow, creating an increased arch to give a dramatic look to the eye. Next, we will enlarge the white of the eye by using a white cream shadow
color to line the lower lid and extend the white area in a curved line along the bottom edge of the eye. Make the line wider as you move to the outer corner of the eye and thinner as you move to the inside.
You should basically increase the size of the “eye” by about 25%.
Our next step requires the application of false eyelashes. This part can be tricky so take your time. You will want to test the eyelash adhesive well ahead of time, by applying a small line along the inside of
the bend of your elbow. Do this a couple days before you plan to use the lashes for real. This will give you time to know whether there is any sensitivity to the adhesive and avoid a painful and potentially
dangerous reaction to the glue.
When you’re ready, apply a small line of adhesive to the back of your hand and touch the lashes along the line to coat the base weft of the lashes. Prior to applying the glue, you should hold the lashes to the
eyes and make sure they are proper width. Cut them if necessary. After the glue is applied, let them sit a few moment to allow the glue to become tacky (sticky) then carefully apply the upper lashes along the
upper lid’s lashes to increase the thickness and lushness of the upper lashes.
Carefully apply the lower lashes along the line of the white area you created earlier. This helps to reinforce the illusion of the larger eye area. Line the eyes – both upper and lower lids along the new
lash lines using a charcoal gray powder and the fine-tipped brush. If you have to use a liquid or pencil, be sure to make a clean line and lightly smudge it after allowing it to set for a moment.
The next step is creating the new contours that will encourage the idea that the eye is more bulbous and rounder and larger still. Use a dark pink shadow (either a cream or shimmering powder) to place
curved contours around the upper lid (arcing over the crease and onto the brow bone) and under the lower lid in a slightly more shallow curve. The outer corner of the upper contour should be slightly
thicker, as should the lower contour’s outer end.
The last step in the contour phase is the highlighting. Using silver cream-shadow with a high-level shimmer factor, cover the upper lid along the line of the contour and work down to the line of the upper
lashes. Apply a highlighting swath along the underside of the brow to give a pronounced brow bone, and place a smallish dot of silver at the inner corner of the eye for balance. Use a soft brush to blend the
color and contours gently without blurring them completely. Finally, add an extra touch of silver directly to the center of the upper lid to make the eye really stand out.