Up-Styles are always popular, and everyone is always looking for something "new"
and "different" in their up-dos. And just as overall style trends change through the
years, so do the specific variants of those styles. In fact, such changes always occur in
small increments. Little adaptations to existing styles lead inevitably to new 'looks' as
time passes. Up-dos are just the same. In the eighties, most up-dos were characterized
by puffed up bangs, and frilly twists and spiraling accent curls. As the eighties passed
into the nineties, the puffs and frills got smaller and smaller details became the
fashion. Today's up-styles tend to be smoother, sleeker, with a cleaner, more
sophisticated look to them (but perhaps that opinion is colored by the telescoping effect of looking back at styles).
But with modern trends in mind, it's time to take a look at an easy, long-haired
up-style for those women who want a smooth sleek finish to their formal hair-do.
Creating the Style:
We begin our demonstration on a manikin with unwashed hair. We mist the
manikin's hair with a leave-in conditioner and use a blow-dryer and a flat paddle brush
to dry it smooth and straight. The manikin's head is tilted forward and the hair is
combed outward from the center of the crown area, allowing the natural parting of the
hair to assert itself. (Our manikin's natural part is to the left of center. If your client
doesn't have such a parting you will want to create one, or adjust the final stages of the style accordingly.)
Once the hair has been combed smooth, section out a circular shape of hair
centered at the crown of the head. This hair will form our 'base' and will be the
anchoring point upon which we will build the layers of our up-style. Divide this circular
section into two sections vertically. Holding the two sections as if you were going to
make ponytails of them, tie the sections together into a square knot with the knot
itself resting gently against the scalp. There is no need to pull the knot tight, as it will not stay tight.
Use two large bob pins and anchor the knot to the scalp by positioning them
crosswise onto one another. Allow the free ends of the knotted hair to continue going in
the direction dictated by the knot wrapping them in a circular sweep around the knot.
Before the ends become sparse (and to prevent a frayed look to the finished style) clip
a bob pin onto the strand ends, flip the pin so that its ridged side is facing the scalp,
and clip it into position at the base of the knot. Using the tail of a tail comb, gently
tuck the hair ends underneath the curve of hair you just formed. Spray lightly
with hairspray and gently pat the hair to smooth down any stray strands.
Now, begin slicing long thin sections of hair from the sides of the head at the
ears, alternating between one side and the other. Take these sliced sections and mist
them with spray, comb them smooth and sweep them across and around the crown of
the head. Use the "clip, flip, and slip" method to pin the sections into place, carefully
tucking the ends out of sight and spraying and patting the sections to smooth down strays.
Work your way from the sides to the nape of the neck in this fashion, creating
layer upon layer of upswept sections. Position the overlapping layers as desired, to
preserve the balance of the style on the head. When you've placed the last section of
hair at the nape of the neck, all that should remain are a small section of hair to the
left of the parting, and a larger section of hair across the top to the right of the parting.
Carefully mist the left side section of hair and comb it smoothly along the
hairline and anchor it at the back of the head along the lower right side of the crown
area. As this and the top section of hair are the final touches of this style, be
especially conscientious to make the section smooth. Once you're happy with this
section's placement and the hiding of the ends of the section, proceed to the top and
final section for placement.
This last section is larger than the others you will have handled, and should be
misted with hairspray and combed into a wide, smooth ribbon of hair, wrap this section
along the hairline at the right side of the head, down around the lower crown and anchor
it as you did the others on the lower left side of the crown. Pay special care to
'clipping, flipping and slipping" the bob pin anchoring this section, so that you can hide
the pin and tuck the end of the section out of sight. Spray the section again with
hairspray and smooth it gently to ensure that there are no stray hairs sticking out.
In our demo we have used two 'jeweled' combs one tucked behind another for
decoration on top of the style behind the parting, but a variety of adornments could
be used, provided they aren't overbalancing and are able to attach themselves along
the scalp. Jeweled pins or barrette, a small coronet, or even a small spray of flowers
would work if appropriate to the occasion.
The result is a style with a smooth finish, and an elegant look, and the staying
power to handle virtually any evening celebratory activity or occasion.