The biggest factor in a successful perm is the perm wrap. How
the hair is wound on the perm rod, the size of the rod, and the
number of rods used all effect the outcome. So, we're going to show you how to "Wrap a Perm".
For our demonstration we will be wrapping the hair for a "body
wave". The difference between the standard 'perm' and what is
called a 'body wave' is simply the size of the tools used.
The perm wrapping tools come in many sizes, from the teeny-tiny rods
(usually bright red) to large, thick rods (usually orange or purple in
color), and many steps in between. The smaller the rod is, obviously, the tighter the curl.
You need: Hair clips, perm rods, end papers, tail combs, and spray bottle of water.
Shampoo the hair two times with a clarifying shampoo. Do not apply any
conditioner or other product, so as not to hinder the hair's absorption of the waving
lotion. Section the hair on the head into nine sections. The sections should be a little
shorter than the length of the rod you will use. Sectioning the hair makes it easier to
work with as you wrap the perm by keeping the hair not being wrapped out of the way.
Begin with section one (center crown section, see diagram) and
slice a segment of hair approximately as thick as the rod you are
using. Comb out the section until it is smooth and fold an end
paper over the segment about 1/3 of the distance from the end of
the hair. Lightly mist the folded end paper and hair segment
(allowing the end paper to 'grip' the hair segment) and slide the
end paper down past the ends of the segment.
The purpose for end papers is to make sure that the ends of
the hair wind smoothly around the rod. Without using them, the
ends of the hair can get folded back onto themselves in the
wrapping process and cause "fish hooks" in the completed perm.
Wrap the protruding end paper over the rod and turn the rod "under", winding the
hair evenly onto the rod. Keep even, gently tension on the hair as you wind the rod,
and once you reach the scalp, secure the rod as appropriate. (Most rods today have
an elastic tether that extends across the wrapped segment and an end cap that fits
into the opposite end of the rod.)
Slice another segment below the first and repeat the process.
Continue with section two (center nape), then sections three
and four (right crown, right nape), five and six (left crown, left nape),
seven (right side), eight (left side), and 9 (top). Wrap the hair
'downward" in each section - toward the neck in the back sections,
toward the ear on the left and right sides, and toward the face on
the top section. If you notice that your perm rods look "crowded",
then your segments are too thin, if you can insert a finger between
the rods, then the segments are too thick.
Getting the hair wrapped evenly for the perm is important so
that the waving solution processes evenly and you get the optimal
results. The majority of troubles with at-home-perms are a direct result of poor wrapping
techniques. A good wrap ensures even curls and processing.
Once wrapped, you're ready to follow your package guidelines for your at-home perm. Enjoy!